V. Kzyl­tash from Kon­teyner Pass, Cat. 1B

From the camp, move in the direction of Ak­tru Glacier. Walk along the slopes of v. Kzyl­tash, following the river bed until big rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further:

• walk along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazh­erov;
• the lake is located behind a moraine rampart;
• on the moraine — a glaciologists' tent;
• 2–2.5 hours walking from the camp;
• a convenient place for an overnight stay.

V. Kzyl-Tash via Uchetel' Pass, cat. 3

From the lower building of Aktru weather station, ascend via a wide couloir, along its right side on an old trail in the direction of Uchetel' Pass. The ascent to the north-eastern ridge of Uchetel' Pass takes 1–1.5 hours. Move along the easy ridge in the direction of the summit for 30–40 minutes until the first difficult sections, before which it is necessary to rope up. Continue in rope teams, moving alternately or simultaneously with protection via rock outcrops. On the ridge, several gendarmes are encountered, which can be bypassed:

• to the right,
• on snow,
• on rock ledges. The north-eastern ridge ends with a 40-meter wall with an inside corner, which leads to the south-eastern summit ridge (2–2.5 hours). The inside corner, the key section of the route, is covered with ice. It is climbed with thorough piton protection. Further movement proceeds mainly along the left part of the south-eastern ridge. The last gendarme before the summit is bypassed to the right on snow. The ascent to the summit tower is on the right side of the tower (2–2.5 hours). Descent from the summit is via route 1B, cat. 3, to Konteyner Pass. Descent time is 3–3.5 hours.

1.2. North Chuya Range, Aktru gorge

Kzyl-Tash 3486 m via the North slope of the Southwest ridge

Proposed category: 3B, first ascent Route type: snow-ice. Note: height (3486.4) is as per the published 1:50,000 map available on the Internet. Altitude difference as per the group's altimeter: 520 m Route length — 900 m (estimated); including 400 m of category 3 difficulty, between 45° to 50° Average steepness of the entire route — 35° Equipment used on the ascent: 12 ice screws, no rock pitons or stoppers (no protection left behind) Climbing hours on July 16, 2005: from Aktru alpine camp (2100 m) to Uchyitel' pass (3100 m) — 1.5 h (4:00–5:30),

Ascent Certificate

1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Aktru gorge, section 1.2.
2. Kzyl-Tash peak 3486 m, via the middle ridge of the Southern slope.
3. Proposed category: 3A.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference 900 m, length 1400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 40°.
6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 15 pieces.
7. Team's travel time 8 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Leader: Afanasyev A.E., Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Akturu valley, section 1.
2. Kzyl-Tash peak, 3486 m, via the right ridge of the South slope.
3. Proposed category 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 1200 m, length — 3000 m, average slope — 30°, steepest section — 55°.
6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 15.
7. Team's total climbing hours — 12 hours.
8. Leader — Afanasiev A.E., Master of Sports. Team members — Salin A.V., 1st sports category, Kuznetsova T.Yu., 2nd sports category.

Ascent Passport

1 Region — Altai Republic, North Chuya Range 2 Peak — Kyzyltash 3486 m via the northwest slope icefall 3 Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent. 4 Route characteristics — ice and snow. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain of the main part 480 m, route length — 740 m. length of sections

• 5th category of difficulty — 110 m.
• 4th category of difficulty — 190 m average steepness of the main part 55°

6. Equipment used on the route: ice screws — 74

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit of Kyzyl-Tash 3486 m via the northwest slope icefall. Presumably 4B category of difficulty. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrey Vladimirovich Team members: Kulishova Alena Maratovna Pintusov Anton Nikolaevich Syutkin Andrey Leonidovich

Ascent Details

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KZYLTASH VIA THE ROUTE "Icefall on the NW slope (from the left)" 4A category of complexity BY THE TEAM (RFSOO "FAiS NSO") FOR THE PERIOD FROM NOVEMBER 5 TO NOVEMBER 5, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports category of the leader	Shepelev Vladimir Aleksandrovich 1st sports category
1.2	Full name, sports category of the participants	Glazachev Danila Vyacheslavovich 2nd sports category; Mikhailov Artem Vyacheslavovich 2nd sports category
1.3	Full name of the coach	Sokolov G. A.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT, ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT KZYLTASH 3486 M VIA THE ICE SLOPE OF THE EASTERN PART OF THE NORTH-WEST WALL, CATEGORY 3B COMPLEXITY FOR THE PERIOD MAY 4, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Karlin Sergey Fedorovich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Participants: Tokareva Margarita Andreevna — 2nd sports rank, Tokarev Vitaly Viktorovich — 2nd sports rank, Khabarov Dmitry Alexandrovich — 3rd sports rank, Ryabinin Viktor Vladimirovich — 3rd sports rank, Polivaeva Daria Andreevna — 3rd sports rank
1.3	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Makarov Oleg Nikolaevich CMS
1.4	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Participants: Melekhov Mikhail Gennadievich — 3rd sports rank, Kharitonov Sergey Vladimirovich — 3rd sports rank