Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area — Altai, Aktru valley.
2. Name of the peak: Karatash, via the center of the north face.
3. 6A category of difficulty, 3rd ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route elevation gain — 1030 m. Route length — 1298 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty – 195 m, VI category of difficulty – 255 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 73°, total route — 59°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted pitons — 0. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted pitons — 0, including artificial aids — 0; removable bolted pitons — 2, including artificial aids — 2.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area — Altai, Aktru gorge, section number according to KMGV — 1.2.
2. Name of the peak: Karatash, via the left part of the North face.
3. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — combined.
5. Height difference of the route — 940 m. Route length — 1230 m. Length of sections with 5 and 6 category of difficulty — 305 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route — 61°
• entire route — 50°

Sheet 1

Passport

1. Class — rock, route character — combined.
2. Region — Altai, Aktru gorge.
3. Mt. Karatash, via N slope, western glacier "Tronov's pants".
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 975 m, length — 1400 m length of sections with V and VI category of difficulty — 195 m average steepness — 50°, average steepness of main part (icefall) — 90°, 120 m.

Sheet 1

Passport

1. Class — rock, route character — combined.
2. Region — Altai, Aktru gorge.
3. Peak Karatash, via N. side, western glacier "Tronov's pants".
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 975 m, length — 1400 m length of sections with V and VI category of difficulty — 195 m average steepness — 50°, average steepness of the main part (icefall) — 90°, 120 m.

Ascent Log

1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, 3535 m, via the left part of the North face.
3. Proposed category: 4B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 1100 m, length: 2500 m, average steepness of the main part: 60°.
6. Pitons used: 50 rock and nut.
7. Climbing hours: 18, days: 2.
8. Leader: Afanasyev A.E., Master of Sports Participants:

v. Karatash

3510 m

Report

Teams from Tomsk Region (TFA)

on the first ascent of the route on v. Karatash via the north-eastern counterfort of the north-eastern ridge "4A" (rocky) Participants: Temerev I.M. Karpitskiy E.V. Tomsk — 2004

Ascent Certificate

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.2.
2. Peak Karatash 3535 m, via North-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category 4A, variant.
4. The route is rocky in nature.
5. Height difference 1100 m, length 2500 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and placement 50, ice 2.
7. Team's travel time 18 hours, 2 days.
8. One overnight stay: cold, lying down. Team Leader: Afanasiev A.E. MS

Karatash 4A via North wall V. Kozhin 1956

Between 1990 and 1999, the author climbed all existing routes marked on the map on Karatash peak. During the first ascent of the SE couloir of the NE ridge on October 18, 1990, by a group consisting of:

• Afanasyev A.,
• Arshavsky N.,
• Malashchenko A.,
• Mishkov A.,
• Shilkin E. a note was found dated October 1, 1969, from a group consisting of Mitrokhin Yu.I., Chugulin Yu., Mikhin V.A., Sharafutdinov. Later, on July 25, 1998, an ascent was made along the NE buttress, where signs of previous ascents were found in some places:
• a platform on a talus shelf,
• a rock hook,

1.2.25

Climbing Passport No. 2

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, via the North-West couloir of the North face.
3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
4. The route is ice and snow.
5. Height difference 1000 m, Length 1500 m, Average slope 45°.
6. Pitons hammered in: ice — 6.

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Karatash via SE couloir of NE ridge.
4. Proposed category 3B (the route has been climbed multiple times during the operation of the Akturu sports camp).
5. Elevation difference 680 m, length 1720 m.
6. 1 ice screw and 14 stoppers were used.
7. 12 travel hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Vinnikov E.N., 1st sports category.