ASCENT CERTIFICATE. №1

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, via the Western couloir from Pravyy Aktru glacier.
3. Proposed category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is combined.
5. The route's height difference is 800 m, the route length is 2500 m, the average steepness of the main part is 45°, and the overall route is 25°.
6. Pitons hammered in: ice screws — 2.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
8. Leader Khilko V. CMS Team members:

Passport

1. Rock climbing route.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. Karatash via the SE slope of the NE ridge.
4. Category 2B proposed (the route has been climbed several times before).
5. Elevation gain 480 m, length 1360 m.
6. No pitons used.
7. Moving time 10 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stays required.
9. Drakin A.V. CMS

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Karatash via SE couloir of NE ridge.
4. Proposed category 3B (the route has been climbed multiple times during the operation of the Akturu sports camp).
5. Elevation difference 680 m, length 1720 m.
6. 1 ice screw and 14 stoppers were used.
7. 12 travel hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Vinnikov E.N., 1st sports category.

1.2.25

Climbing Passport No. 2

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, via the North-West couloir of the North face.
3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
4. The route is ice and snow.
5. Height difference 1000 m, Length 1500 m, Average slope 45°.
6. Pitons hammered in: ice — 6.

Karatash 4A via North wall V. Kozhin 1956

Between 1990 and 1999, the author climbed all existing routes marked on the map on Karatash peak. During the first ascent of the SE couloir of the NE ridge on October 18, 1990, by a group consisting of:

• Afanasyev A.,
• Arshavsky N.,
• Malashchenko A.,
• Mishkov A.,
• Shilkin E. a note was found dated October 1, 1969, from a group consisting of Mitrokhin Yu.I., Chugulin Yu., Mikhin V.A., Sharafutdinov. Later, on July 25, 1998, an ascent was made along the NE buttress, where signs of previous ascents were found in some places:
• a platform on a talus shelf,
• a rock hook,

Ascent Certificate

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.2.
2. Peak Karatash 3535 m, via North-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category 4A, variant.
4. The route is rocky in nature.
5. Height difference 1100 m, length 2500 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and placement 50, ice 2.
7. Team's travel time 18 hours, 2 days.
8. One overnight stay: cold, lying down. Team Leader: Afanasiev A.E. MS

v. Karatash

3510 m

Report

Teams from Tomsk Region (TFA)

on the first ascent of the route on v. Karatash via the north-eastern counterfort of the north-eastern ridge "4A" (rocky) Participants: Temerev I.M. Karpitskiy E.V. Tomsk — 2004

Ascent Log

1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, 3535 m, via the left part of the North face.
3. Proposed category: 4B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 1100 m, length: 2500 m, average steepness of the main part: 60°.
6. Pitons used: 50 rock and nut.
7. Climbing hours: 18, days: 2.
8. Leader: Afanasyev A.E., Master of Sports Participants:

Sheet 1

Passport

1. Class — rock, route character — combined.
2. Region — Altai, Aktru gorge.
3. Peak Karatash, via N. side, western glacier "Tronov's pants".
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 975 m, length — 1400 m length of sections with V and VI category of difficulty — 195 m average steepness — 50°, average steepness of the main part (icefall) — 90°, 120 m.

Sheet 1

Passport

1. Class — rock, route character — combined.
2. Region — Altai, Aktru gorge.
3. Mt. Karatash, via N slope, western glacier "Tronov's pants".
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 975 m, length — 1400 m length of sections with V and VI category of difficulty — 195 m average steepness — 50°, average steepness of main part (icefall) — 90°, 120 m.