1.2.25

Climbing Passport No. 2

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, via the North-West couloir of the North face.
3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
4. The route is ice and snow.
5. Height difference 1000 m, Length 1500 m, Average slope 45°.
6. Pitons hammered in: ice — 6.
7. Team's travel time — 6 hours.
8. Leader Afanasyev A. MS Participants: Arshavsky N. II c/r, Malashchenko A. II c/r, Mishkov A. II c/r, Solodovnikov Yu. II c/r
9. Coach Afanasyev A.
10. Departure to the route and return on October 19, 1990.

Route Description

Ascent to Karatash peak via the north-west couloir of the North face, approximately category 3A, first ascent.

The route starts from the lateral moraine of the first "Khumon" (icefall of Pravy Aktru glacier). The couloir is visible from under the icefall all the way to the top.

Sections:

• 0–1: 700 m, 45°, II–. Snow-firn couloir.
• 1–2: 50 m, 50°, III+. Narrow neck of the couloir. Ice. Protection via ice screws.
• 2–3: 500 m, 47°, II+. Snow-firn couloir.
• 3–4: 200 m, 50°, III+. Frozen crumbly rock slope. Protection is difficult: rock outcrops, ice plugs.
• 4–5: 150 m, I+. Summit snow-scree ridge.

General photo of Karatash mountain

Taken from Sachkov lake on July 27, 1998 with a "Yanishka" camera.