Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Karatash via SE couloir of NE ridge.
4. Proposed category 3B (the route has been climbed multiple times during the operation of the Akturu sports camp).
5. Elevation difference 680 m, length 1720 m.
6. 1 ice screw and 14 stoppers were used.
7. 12 travel hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Vinnikov E.N., 1st sports category. Grachev A.P., 2nd sports category.
10. Coach Drakin A.V., Candidate Master of Sports, instructor 1st category No. 68.
11. Ascent and descent on August 5, 1997.
12. Organized by the Rubtsovsk City Sports Committee.

Photo #1 v. Karatash via SE couloir of NE ridge. Shot taken from point #1. Camera "Smena 8M". Lens LOMO T-43 4/40.

Photo #2 start of the route. Shot taken from point #2. Camera "Smena 8M". Lens LOMO T-43 4/40.

V. Karatash

via SE couloir of NE ridge. From the base camp near PSO "Akturu", move upstream along the river to the bridge. Cross the river over the bridge and exit onto the Maly Akturu glacier via the moraine. Traverse the NE ridge on the glacier, going left. At the lower part of the ridge, a deep gap is visible, led to by:

— a narrow, deep couloir; — a wide, indistinct couloir to the left, the inner slope of which appears as a green inclined ledge, running from the glacier to the gap in the ridge.

The first technical challenge is transitioning from the glacier to the "green ledge". It requires:

— rappelling into the randkluft; — navigating through a jumble of ice blocks and crevices; — approaching the wall, which can be climbed to reach the "green ledge".

This obstacle is category 3B. Further along the straightforward "green ledge", one reaches the gap in the NE ridge.

A 60 m internal corner requires careful piton belay and rope protection for the group.

Further:

— a 40 m wall of third category complexity leads to a gendarme with a control cairn. Piton belay is used. — After the control cairn, the ridge:

— is third category complexity in the lower section;
— is straightforward in the middle section;
— is second category complexity in the upper section.

It is recommended to stay on the left side of the NE ridge throughout. The NE ridge leads to the summit of Karatash.

Descent is category 1B.