Ullutau

Description of the climbing route to the summit, completed by the team in February 1994, with a detailed description of the tactics and actions on individual sections.

Ascent Passport Ascent type: winter Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su gorge Peak, route: Ullu-Tau /Main/ via NNW wall / V. Li route / Difficulty category: 5B Height difference: wall section: 810 m total route length: 1583 m wall section length: 983 m

Ascent to the summit of Ullutau Main (4207 m) via the North-West wall through "Rocky Island", difficulty category 5B.

ASCENT DOCUMENT Ascent class: combined. Ascent area: spurs of the Main Caucasian Range from the Chipperazau Pass to the Kitlod Pass. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Ullutau Main, 4207 m, via the center of the Northwest wall through the "Rocky Island". Estimated difficulty category: 5B Route characteristics: a) height difference – 900 m, b) average steepness – 65°, c) section lengths: III difficulty category – 670 m, IV difficulty category – 1360 m, V difficulty category – 650 m. Number of pitons: For belaying: Rock 38 Ice 98 Bolt 2

Description of a new 5B category difficulty route to the summit of Ullu-Tau (4207 m) via the north wall through a rocky "island" between the Eastern and Main summits.

The summit of Ullu-Tau (4207 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range and closes the Adyr-Su gorge. The summit is an array located in the East-West direction and has three not clearly defined peaks: Eastern, Main, and Western. The highest point of the massif is the Main peak of Ullu-Tau. To the north, the massif drops off with a steep wall with significant glaciation. The height difference is over 1200 m. All technically complex routes on the massif pass along the northern walls and are combined. Eight routes of category 5B have been laid on the massif (all along the northern walls). For the ascent, the group chose a new route through a steep rocky outcrop located between the rocky bastions of the Eastern and Main peaks. From the "Dzhailyk" alpine camp, past the "Ullu-Tau" alpine camp, up the gorge for 3 hours to the moraine under the northern wall of Ullu-Tau Main ("Central bivouac"). Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route

Report on the ascent by the "Rodina" sports club team to the summit of Ulu-Tau via the North Wall, category 5B difficulty level, in winter conditions.

1991 RSFSR Alpine Championship. Winter Ascension Class 135 Report Report on the ascent to Ullu-Tau peak (Main) 4207 m via the north wall, category 5B, Abalakov's route '51. 2.4.1.132 KTMGV Team from "Rodina" Sports Club of the Kirov Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Team Leader Coach Shabalin P.E. Mashkovtsev V.I. "Rodina" Sports Club: 610006, Kirov, Lepsye St., 4A, ph. 30310, 36592

Description of a winter ascent category 5B to the summit of Ullu-Tau Main via the North wall, made by a team of five people on February 7, 1994.

PASSPORT I. CLIMB CLASS – winter CLIMBING AREA – Central Caucasus PEAK – ULLU-TAU Main, route via the North face, combined (V. Abalakov) DIFFICULTY CATEGORY – 5B ELEVATION GAIN – 1000 m LENGTH OF 5-6 difficulty sections – 450 m AVERAGE SLOPE OF THE ROUTE – 57° PITS DRIVEN ON ASCENT: rock belay devices pitons ice screws

Passport and description of a 5B category route through the North face of Ullutau Glavnaya peak in Central Caucasus.

Ascent Passport. Region: Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge, Main Caucasus Range, section according to KMGV – 2.4.1 Peak Ullutau Glavnaya, 4207 m, via the North face (route by V. Abalakov). Complexity category: 5B. Route type: combined. Route elevation gain: (from "Abalakov's" bivouacs at the start of the route to the summit) — 700 m (approx.). Route length – 1000 m. Length of sections with V difficulty category – 180 m, VI difficulty category – 40 m. Average steepness: key sections — 80°;

Report on the first ascent of a category 5B route via a couloir on the northern wall of Ulu-tau peak in the Central Caucasus in 2008.

8-2.4.1.1385 Moscow Region Climbing Championship 2008 (Technical Class) REPORT on the ascent of the Ullutau peak by the team from Shchelkovo via the north wall couloir, category 5B (first ascent) Region — Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge; KMGV code 2.4.1. Peak Ullutau-chana (Main) — 4207 m via the North Wall couloir Proposed category — 5B; first ascent. Route type — ice and snow climb. Height difference — 910 m. Route length — 1100 m. Length of category 5 section — 210 m; category 6 section — 45 m. Average slope — 55°.

Ascent of Ullu-Tau Main (4207 m) via the North-West Wall, right rocky ridges, Burlutskiy route, category 5B.

Ullu-Tau Main 4207 m. Right of the rock islands. North wall of the Western ridge. Burlutsky's route. Passport Technical category. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge. 5B category of difficulty. Route type — ice and snow. Height difference of the route is 1100 m. Route length is 1380 m. Length of category 5 sections — 890 m. Average slope:

Description of the ascent to the summit of Ullu-Tau Main via the ice wall in winter conditions, category 5B, made by the team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism in 2000.

Ascent Passport Winter category. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge. Ullu-Tau Glavnaya peak to the right of the rocky islands (Burlutsky's route). Category of difficulty 5B ice-snow, 2nd ascent. 1994. Height difference — 870 m; length — 1200 m (wall section — 950 m). Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 910 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 56°. Number of ice screws used — 105 (0) Team's climbing hours — 12.5 hours (11.5 hours — on the wall) and 2 days.

Climbing passport for the ascent to Ullu-Tau Main via S. Burlutskiy's route, category 5B, completed by a team led by Mikhail Makovkin in January 2006.

Ascent Passport Region: Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge, Main Caucasian Range, section according to KMGV – 2.4.1 Peak: Ullu-Tau Main, right of the rock islands N wall W ridge (S. Burlutsky's route) Category of difficulty: 5B Route character: ice-snow Height difference of the route: from bergschrund to the summit – 800 m (approximately) Route length: – 1200 m. Length of sections: 5th cat. diff. – 640 m, Average steepness: