Ullutau

Traverse of Sarykolbashi-Tersak and Sarykolbashi peaks in the Elbrus region, category of difficulty 2B, rocky terrain, length 3320 m.

Passport Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.4. Central Caucasus, mountain region — Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge, SE spur of Elbrus Names of peaks: Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) — Sarykol (3700) Route: traverse from south to north Category of complexity: 2B Character of the route — rock. Height difference of the route: 1376 m Length of the route: 3320 m Length of sections with the highest category of complexity:

Traverse of Ullutau peaks (Western - Eastern) along the northwestern wall, category of complexity 5A, a combined route with elements of rock climbing and ice climbing.

Ullutau Western — Eastern via the northwestern wall (traverse), combined, 5A Route description: Following the standard path via "Chegetskie nochyovki" we move towards Garvash Pass, pass the rocky outcrop "Khitsan", cross the glacier covered with avalanche debris and come out under the rock wall at the base of the "board". The exit to the rock wall is done in the lower part via a simple couloir, 60 m long. There is a protected area at the top of the couloir, suitable for the group to gather. The next part (one rope length) goes straight up the complex rocks, requiring the use of piton belay. Then we overcome simple rocks and come out to the lower part of the "board". There is a "stop for the night" here. The ascent from the "stop for the night" along the "board" to the ridge is 700–800 m and is done diagonally up to the left along the snow-ice slope in the direction of the saddle on the ridge. The steepness of the "board" is: in the lower part — 30°, in the upper part — up to 55°. The movement is carried out with piton belay. We come out onto the ridge and move along it to the "diamond", which is overcome head-on. The further path to the main summit lies along the destroyed ridge. There are areas for overnight stay along the way.

Fig. 30

Ullutau Western — Eastern (combined route by L. Nadezhdin, 4A cat. dif., fig. 18, 30). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Ullutau Western is described in route 272. From the summit of Ullutau Western: down the simple rocks of the Eastern ridge, then down 15 m steep rocks and 10 m slabs to a snowy saddle. Beyond the saddle: along a narrow ledge on the right side of the ridge (overhanging rocks, loose stones), up a 10 m wall of medium difficulty with a crack to reach the ridge of the massif. Along the easy ridge, reach the 2nd Western pinnacle-summit. From the pinnacle-summit, descend down slabs and steep rocks to an icy-snowy saddle. Then, along simple rocks of the ridge, passing a 10-meter sharp crest, approach the Main Pinnacle, which is bypassed via difficult slabs on the left. Further along the heavily serrated ridge of medium and above medium difficulty, approach the Red Pinnacle.

Report on the ascent to the Eastern peak of Ullu-tau-chan via the northern bastions of the shoulder, category 5A difficulty in 1972.

REPORT on the ascent to the summit of Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder, category 5B difficulty History of the massif exploration The exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933, when A. Japaridze and G. Niguriani ascended to the Main Peak from the Lekzyr glacier via the Mestian pass, following a route of category 3B difficulty, and to the Western peak from the Garvash pass, following a route of category 2B difficulty. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif were accomplished for the first time, with a category 4B difficulty: 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east, 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946, the first ascent was made via the "board" to the Western peak, followed by a traverse of the massif to the east, category 5A difficulty — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov. In the 1950s, the conquest of the northern walls began: 1951 — V. Abalakov, M. Anufrikov, A. Borovikov, N. Gusak, V. Kizel, V. Nagaev, L. Filimonov, V. Cheredova — Main peak ("Central") via the northern wall, category 5B difficulty, 1954 — E. Monucharov, E. Emelyanov, G. Kalepov, B. Sadovsky, G. Senachev, Yu. Chernoslivin — Eastern peak via the northern wall, category 5B difficulty.

Fig. 30

Ullutau Western via North-Western Wall of the Eastern Ridge (combined route by D. Gudkov, cat. 4B, fig. 18, 30, 31) The path from Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to "Cheget bivouac" is described in route 269. From "Cheget bivouac": ascend upwards to the left along the rugged western part of Ullutau glacier, bypassing numerous crevices, to the rocky outcrop located on the path to Garvash pass, under the right side of the Lower rocky belt at the base of the North-Western wall of Ullutau massif; set up initial bivouac on the outcrop's flat areas; the journey from "Cheget bivouac" takes 30-50 minutes. From the initial bivouac on the outcrop, traverse 200-250 m to the left to cross the glacier plateau

Fig. 30

Ullutau Western peak via Western ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 18, 30). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the Garvash pass is described in route 278. From the saddle platforms, follow the straightforward, heavily damaged and snow-covered (cornices) rocky Western ridge, passing three ascents, to approach the Teeth, which are bypassed by traversing from the left, and then approach the wall (5-8 m high). The wall is overcome directly via medium-difficulty rocks (pitons insurance). Then, along a narrow 40-60-meter ridge, approach the couloir on the right side of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, insurance). Up the steep rocks on the left side of the narrowing snow-covered 80-90-meter couloir - ascent ("live" rocks, pitons insurance) to the Western shoulder. From the Western shoulder, ascend to the summit of Ullutau Western peak via the rocks of the Western ridge. From the Garvash pass, it takes 3-4 hours.

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Ullutau Main (4207 m) via the North-North-West face, completed by the team of the Kabardino-Balkarian Amateur Sports Club in 1985.

Passport Climbing category: ice-snow Climbing region: Central Caucasus, Adyr-su region Peak, its height and ascent route: Ullutau Main via North-Northwest wall, 4207 m, 5B category, 3rd ascent. Route characteristics: height difference — 950 m; average steepness — 47°; route length to the ridge — 1300 m. Pitons used: rock 13/0, drilled 0/0, chocks 4/0, ice screws 122/0 Team's total climbing hours: 9 hours Team: leader Kurganov N.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports Members: Erokhin I.D. — Candidate for Master of Sports