Ascent Passport
- Ascent type: winter
- Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su gorge
- Peak, route: Ullu-Tau /Main/ via NNW wall / V. Li route /
- Difficulty category: 5B
- Height difference:
- wall section: 810 m
- total route length: 1583 m
- wall section length: 983 m
- section with 5th difficulty category: 905 m
- section with 6th difficulty category: 78 m
- average steepness of wall section: 63°
- average steepness of the route: 50°
- Pitons used:
- rock pitons: 5
- ice screws: 145
- chocks: 10
- expansion bolts: 0
- Time taken/hiking days: 14 / 2
- Overnight stay: on a ledge below the ridge in a tent, sitting
- Leader: Stepanov Viktor Nikolaevich, Master of Sports of the USSR
- Participants:
- Boikov Sergei Viktorovich, 1st sports category
- Ivanov Viacheslav Grigorievich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Coach: Ivanov Viacheslav Grigorievich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Route entry: February 21, 1994
- Summit: February 22, 1994
- Return: February 22, 1994
Photo of the summit on the right
Photo from below Garvash pass. Shooting point on the diagram is #2.
Team's tactical actions
I. Time breakdown was as follows:
- exit from the cave at 6:00 on February 21, 1994;
- traversing the snow-ice slope from the cave to the bergschrund (section R0–R1) from 6:00 to 8:00;
- traversing the bergschrund and ice wall (section R1–R3) from 8:00 to 11:00;
- traversing the rock inner corner with icing (section R3–R4) from 11:00 to 12:00;
- snack on a rock ledge from 12:00 to 12:30;
- traversing the ice wall (section R4–R6) from 12:30 to 17:00;
- traversing the rock inner corner with icing (section R6–R7) from 17:00 to 18:00;
- overnight stay from 18:00 on February 21, 1994, to 7:00 on February 22, 1994;
- exit from the overnight stay location to the ridge (section R7–R8) from 8:00 to 9:00;
- traversing along the ridge to the summit (section R8–R9) from 9:00 to 11:00.
II. Team's tactical actions for traversing individual sections of the route were as follows:
February 21, 1994:
- a) section R0–R1 was traversed by all team members in turns;
- b) section R1–R4 was led by Boikov S.V.;
- c) section R4–R6 was led by Ivanov V.G.;
- d) section R6–R8 was led by Stepanov B.N.
February 22, 1994:
- Ridge section (R8–R9) was led by Stepanov B.N.
Work on the route was continuous, except for stops for scheduled radio contact and snacks.
III. Team's safety measures were as follows:
- a) on icy sections, the lead climber used "shakalo" and "ice fifis" on a double rope;
- b) ice screws were screwed in every 6–10 m along the entire icy section;
- c) at points of leader change and rope anchoring, blocked ice screws or rock pitons were used;
- d) pitons and chocks on rocky sections with icing were used every 3–4 m; the lead climber used a double rope;
- e) the ridge section was traversed in turns.
There were no falls or injuries on the route.
Route diagram in UIAA symbols
- Belaying and self-belaying via ice axes ("shakalo").
Description of route elements on the diagram
- R9: 200 m, 20°, difficulty category 2
- R8: 55 m, 60°, difficulty category 5
- R7: 25 m, 80°, difficulty category 6
- R6: 380 m, 50°, difficulty category 5
- R5: 30 m, 60°, difficulty category 5
- R4: 50 m, 70°, difficulty category 6
- R3: 400 m, 50°, difficulty category 5
- R2: 3 m, 90°, difficulty category 6
- R1: 400 m, 30°, difficulty category 4
- R0
Route description by sections
Section R0–R1
Firn slope, alternating movement.
Section R1–R2
- Bergschrund, ice wall.
- Lead climber moved with the help of "ice fifis" and "shakalo".
- Others traversed the bergschrund on fixed ropes.
Section R2–R3
Extended ice wall. Lead climber moved with the help of "ice fifis" and "shakalo". Others traversed the wall on fixed ropes.
Section R3–R4
Rock inner corner with icing. Lead climber moved with the help of "ice fifis" and "shakalo". Others traversed the inner corner on fixed ropes.
Section R4–R5
Ice wall. Lead climber moved with the help of "ice fifis" and "shakalo". Others traversed the wall on fixed ropes.
Section R5–R6
Extended ice wall. Lead climber moved with the help of "ice fifis" and "shakalo". Others traversed the wall on fixed ropes.
Section R6–R7
Rock inner corner with icing. Lead climber moved with the help of "ice fifis" and "shakalo". Others traversed the inner corner on fixed ropes.
Section R7–R8
Rock inner corner with icing. Lead climber moved with the help of "ice fifis" and "shakalo". Others traversed the inner corner on fixed ropes.
Section R8–R9
Sharp snow-covered rock ridge with icing. Movement:
- alternating
- with belaying via ledges.