Ascent Passport.

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge, Main Caucasus Range, section according to KMGV – 2.4.1
2. Peak Ullutau Glavnaya, 4207 m, via the North face (route by V. Abalakov).
3. Complexity category: 5B.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: (from "Abalakov's" bivouacs at the start of the route to the summit) — 700 m (approx.). Route length – 1000 m. Length of sections with V difficulty category – 180 m, VI difficulty category – 40 m. Average steepness:
   • key sections — 80°;
   • main part of the route — 60°;
   • entire route — 63°.
6. "Hooks" left on the route: total 4; including pitons — 0. Total used on the route: rock pitons — 29, chocks — 37, cams — 48, ice screws — 5. Stationary pitons already on the route — 10, including artificial support points (AOP) — 8. Total artificial support points (AOP) used — 45.
7. Team's travel hours: 28.5 hours, 2 travel days, including:
   • from "Abalakov's" bivouacs to the 1st bivouac on the wall — 21 hours;
   • from the 1st bivouac to the summit — 7.5 hours; Descent — traverse of Ullutau ridge towards the Western summit: from the Main summit to the 2nd bivouac on the Ullutau ridge — 3 hours; from the 2nd bivouac on the Ullutau ridge to "Ullutau" base camp — 11.5 hours.
8. Leader: Fedorov Vladislav Vladimirovich — 1st sports category, team members: Gurzhov Sergey Viktorovich — 1st sports category, Terekhov Alexey Anatolyevich — 1st sports category, Yurkin Alexander Viktorovich — 1st sports category.
9. Coach: Pavlyuk Alexander Nikolaevich — Candidate Master of Sports, instructor 2nd category, cert. No. 203.
10. Departure to the route: 00:30, July 21, 2005. Summit attainment: 15:30, July 22, 2005. Return to "Ullutau" base camp: 19:50, July 23, 2005.

General photograph of Ullutau peak. *Photography taken from Ullutau glacier on July 14, 2005.

Technical photograph of the route.

• R0–R1 — 300 m, 50–55°, III–IV.
• R1–R2 — 15 m, 70°, VI, A2.
• R2–R3 — 15 m, 40°, IV.
• R3–R4 — 50 m, 45°, IV–V.
• R4–R5 — 50 m, 45°, IV.
• R5–R6 — 50 m, 50–70°, V, A1.
• R6–R7 — 15 m, 60°, V.
• R7–R8 — 35 m, 80°, IV.
• R8–R9 — 50 m, 60°, IV.
• R9–R10 — 10 m, 60°, IV.
• R10–R11 — 40 m, 80–100°, VI, A2.
• R11–R12 — 50 m, 60°, IV.
• R12–R13 — 50 m, 65°, IV.
• R13–R14 — 50 m, 60°, IV.
• R14–R15 — 50 m, 60°, III–V.
• R15–R16 — 50 m, 60–70°, III–V.
• R16–R18 — 100 m, 35–40°, IV.
• R18–R19 — 50 m, 80°, V.
• R19–R20 — 50 m, 70°, V.
• R20–R21 — 10 m, 40°, III.

Brief description of the route passage and photo illustrations of sections with V–VI difficulty categories.

From the bivouac on moraine deposits under the North face (so-called "Central rocks" or "Abalakov's" bivouacs) — upwards along a gentle closed glacier to a large bergschrund. Exit to the route at 00:30.

R0–R1. We cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge. Ascent up a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 50–55° (firn, protection via ice axes) for 300 m towards a rock outcrop "rhombus".

R1–R2. To the top of the "rhombus" first via iced rocks of an inner corner in the lower part (cams, chocks, pitons, AOP A2), then (R2–R4) along the right edge of a wide couloir between the wall and the "rhombus" (45°, rocks, firn, ice). The ice is very hard and flakes off in lenses like accretion ice.

R4–R5. From the "rhombus" to the base of a rock ledge on the North face via an ice slope with outcrops of snowy rocks and stones.

R5–R6. From the lower part of the North face — traverse right and upwards via an inner corner of a wall, 1st step of a three-step shelf-slope. Rocks, местами натёчный лёд (cams, pitons, chocks, AOP).

R6–R7. Move right and upwards, passing small (10–15 m) walls and exiting to the lower shoulder of the North face, to the right of "Ogurtsov" (photo 1). Photo 1

R7–R8. From the third step of the shoulder, upwards-left along a destroyed 100–120-meter steep rock ridge of medium difficulty to a shelf-couloir, gradually turning into a steep snowy chute ("live" stones), exit to a platform under a chimney (protection via ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks) (photo 2). Photo 2

R10–R11. From the platform upwards via a chimney, very difficult climbing, in the middle of the day due to melting snow above the chimney, slippery and wet rocks, exit to a small platform (AOP, pitons, cams) (photo 3). Started processing the chimney at 16:05. Photo 3

R11–R13. From the chimney via steep rocks and slabs of medium and above medium difficulty (many "live" stones), we exit to a bivouac for two to the left of "Palets" gendarme, expand the platform and organize a bivouac. Time 21:30. Photo 4

R14–R15. In the morning, we exit to the route at 8:00. From the bivouac upwards via steep snowy rocks of the North ridge of medium difficulty — 150 m to a snowy "knife-edge".

R16–R18. We pass a small horizontal bridge (10 m) with a cornice and exit to a steep 100-meter acute snowy ridge "knife-edge" (photo 5). Snow:

• to the left of the ridge — loose, movement and protection impossible;
• to the right of the ridge, the snow was still frozen (time 11:30). We move along the "knife-edge", protection via ice axes.

Photo 5

R18–R19. From the base of the summit tower, move upwards via alternating rock walls and inclined snowy shelves (photo 6). Photo 6

R19–R20. Further, we move along a narrow rock ridge and at the top, bypassing the summit tower to the left via an inner corner, we ascend to Ullutau Glavnaya peak (photo 7). Photo 7

On the summit of Ullutau Glavnaya, 15:30 July 22, 2005 (photo 8). Photo 8

In the photo from left to right: Gurzhov S.V., Terekhov A.A., Fedorov V.V. (photography by Yurkin A.V.).

Descent from the summit was carried out along the Ullutau ridge towards the Western summit and further from it to Garvash pass.

Notes from control tours and the summit are missing, likely due to the route being rarely visited and thus lost. The control tour on the summit was empty.

Photopanorama of the area