Tuyuksu

Description of a 4th category complexity route to the Tuyuk-Su peak (4218 m) via the eastern counterfort of the northern ridge in the Trans-Ili Alatau.

ASCENT DOCUMENT Climbing category — rock Region — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Tuyuk-Su gorge. Peak — Tuyuk-Su, 4218 m, eastern spur of the northern ridge, combined route. Proposed complexity category — 4B. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m length — 900 m average steepness — 41° length of the wall section of the eastern spur — 370 m

Description of the category 3B route to the Tujuksu peak via the North ridge from the Igly Tuyuksu glacier, including recommendations and necessary equipment.

Tuyuksu via North Ridge from the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier, 3B cat. Route description. Cross the Tuyuksu glacier in its initial part, move to the right lateral moraine, reach the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier and follow it to the rocky ridge located on the north-north-eastern slope of the summit massif. The ascent begins here. The first rock is bypassed on the right via a snowy-icy couloir with an exit to the saddle. Further, the path goes along easy rocks to a 15-meter rock wall, with piton belay. A new section of easy rocks leads to a 20-meter rock wall. It can be overcome: via a narrow cornice on the left side on the right via inclined slabs (caution! "live" stones)

Description of the 2B category difficulty route to the Tuyuksu peak via the north-west edge with recommendations and information about the first ascent.

Tuyuksu 2B cat. via North-West ridge Route description. The route along the north-western ridge to the Tuyuksu peak is clearly visible from the Molodezhny glacier moraine. The approach to it is through the Tuyuksu glacier to the confluence with the Tuyuksu Igly glacier. Along the right lateral moraine of the Tuyuksu glacier, approach the north-western ridge of the peak. The exit to the route is along the middle part of the slope — less prone to falling rocks. The first 50 m are overcome with crampons. The steepness here is about 45°. Further ascent continues with a deviation to the right, bypassing the steep ice front with a large number of crevasses, along a 200-meter ice slope with a steepness of up to 50°.

Description of the 1B category of complexity route to the Tuyuksu peak via the Tuyuksu pass with recommendations and equipment information.

Tuyuksu 1B cat. complexity with Tuyuksu col Route description. Tuyuksu peak is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur to the southwest of the eponymous 4100 m pass. A snow-ice ridge with intricate snow cornices connects it to the Igly Tuyuksu massif. To the northwest, a rocky ridge with sharp drops in height departs. Significant glaciation is observed on: northern slopes, western slopes. The southern slopes are heavily destroyed. The eastern slopes, descending towards the Left Talgar gorge, are covered with talus and areas of heavily destroyed rocks. The approach to Tuyuksu pass is described in the route to Pogorelsky peak. From the pass, the ascent begins along a wide northeastern ridge. On the eastern side, it is overhung by powerful cornices (be careful!). After 70 m, the ridge lowers slightly, becomes snowy, with sections of easy rocks, and after 200 m, the key point of the route is reached — a 5-meter ice wall. Here, depending on the state of the ridge, it is necessary to: Hang a rope for descent and ascent Use an ice axe or ice axe piton

Description of the route to the top of Tuyuksu via the northwestern ridge, including the approach path, passage through the couloir, and descent from the summit.

Route Description. The approach path is the same as to the summit of Pogrebetsky. Moving along the middle of the Tuyuksu glacier and rounding the northwest ridge of the eponymous peak, turn left towards the foot of a large couloir located at the junction of the northwest ridge of Tuyuksu peak and the main ridge, running from Tuyuksu pass to the summit. The couloir is quite long, its lateral branches are framed by rocks, and it is hazardous due to rockfall. It is recommended to pass through it early in the morning, sticking to the left side and using rock outcrops for cover. Upon reaching the ridge, turn left and ascend to the summit via easy, heavily broken rocks. Descent: It is safer via Tuyuksu pass. Time required for the ascent: 7–8 hours. Recommendations: Number of participants: 8–10 people. Initial bivouac on the moraine of Molodezhny glacier. Departure from bivouac at 4:00 AM.

Traverse of Pogrebetsky and Locomotive peaks, category 2A complexity, duration of the route is 10-12 hours.

Pogrebetskogo — Lokomotiv 2A cat. cl. traverse Route description. From the initial bivouac on the Morain of Molodezhny Glacier, exit onto Tuyuksu Glacier and move along its middle part. Having passed the glacier drop and the massif of Tuyuksu peak, turn left towards the large stones lying at the foot of the ridge of Tuyuksu peak. Climb to Tuyuksu Pass and move along the ridge to the peak. Descent: Down the snowy, not steep slopes, sometimes on talus — to the lowering between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv. Bypass a number of gendarmes on the left along the rocks of medium difficulty and easy ones

Description of the route to the summit of Pobeda Peak from the north, difficulties and key stages of the ascent, recommendations for equipment and group organization.

Pogrebetsky via n.d. from the North Route description. From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuksu glacier and, bypassing the northeastern ridge of the Molodezhnaya peak, move along the middle of the glacier to its drop. Then deviate to the left and, bypassing large stones at the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuksu peak, reach the snow-ice step, then cross the right outflow of the Tuyuksu glacier and approach the northern wall of the peak, then continue moving under the rock outcrop along the snowy slope with a steepness of 30–35°. This section is dangerous: rockfalls and ice break-offs are possible. Therefore, it is recommended to start the route earlier, so that two-thirds of the path can be overcome before

**Ascent Route to Pogrebetsky Peak (4231 m) via Tuyuk-Su Pass (1B)** Description of the ascent route to Pogrebetsky Peak with recommendations and information on the history of the first ascent.

Panorama from Pik Pioner. From left to right: Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m) Tuyuk-Su Needles (4213 m) Tuyuk-Su Peak (4218 m) Pogrebetsky Peak (4231 m) Lokomotiv Peak (4182 m) Zoya Kosmodemyanskaya Peak (4108 m) Molodeжная Peak (4147 m) Photo: Alexey Ignatenko, Almaty. (Full version — 400 Kb)

Traversing Molodezhnaya and Kosmodemyanskaya peaks from Molodezhny pass, category 2A, with route description and recommendations for climbers.

Traverse from Molodezhnogo Pass to the peaks of Molodezhnaya and Kosmodemyanskaya (2A) The description of the beginning of the route from the initial bivouac to the summit of Molodezhnaya is given above. The route continues from the small eastern elevation of the Molodezhnaya summit. Having descended from it about 100 m to the southwest, traverse the rocky ridge and climb up the couloir to the saddle between the Molodezhnaya summit and the Kosmodemyanskaya peak. At the beginning of summer, the saddle is snowy, at the end - ice is exposed. The first group of rocks should be bypassed on the right, the second - on the left. The next stage of the route is going around the rocks on the west side of the ridge of the summit, then along the couloir and further up the broken rocks to rise under the gendarme. Having organized piton belay, traverse it on the west side. The ascent from the saddle to the summit tower goes first along a 6-meter slab with a steepness of up to 55°, then traverses the wall for 15–20 m towards a steep chute. The most difficult section of the wall is at the very beginning, where you have to go around the outer corner by wedging your hand and foot into a shallow crevice. There are no cracks to ensure piton belay. The walls and chute are covered with snow for most of the season, and by the end of the season, flow ice forms on them. Having descended from the tower along the ascent path, exit to the south ridge and from it down a narrow steep chute up to 10 m long to the beginning of the couloir. Traverse the couloir and the slabs lying behind it in the southeast direction, then cross one of the rocky ridges separating the numerous couloirs on the eastern side of the summit.

Description of the traverse route of the four peaks of Mayakovsky - Tuyuksu Needle 4B category of complexity, recommendations for equipment and organization of the ascent.

Mayakovsky — Tuyuksu Needles 4B cat. sl. Traverse of four peaks Description of the route. Approaches to the beginning of the ascent are described in the first section of routes to Mayakovsky Peak. The path starts to the left of a pronounced chimney, climbing to the right wall on medium rocks (piton belay). Behind the first wall there is a shelf, to the right there is a 3 m wall, followed by a triangular area and an approach to a 15–20 m wall (pitons belay). After it, there is a shelf with a control cairn and the third 10 m wall (pitons belay). Then traverse to the right along the shelf 9–10 m under the wall, exit to the recommended overnight spot. Here is the second control cairn. The fourth wall is 40 m long, the rocks are difficult (pitons belay), ends with a narrow shelf, behind it — the fifth wall of slabby structure (few ledges). Go to the shelf, traverse it to the left to a chimney 30–35 m high (difficult climbing, piton belay). At the end of the chimney — the third