Pogrebetsky via n.d. from the North
Route description.
From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuksu glacier and, bypassing the northeastern ridge of the Molodezhnaya peak, move along the middle of the glacier to its drop. Then deviate to the left and, bypassing large stones at the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuksu peak, reach the snow-ice step, then cross the right outflow of the Tuyuksu glacier and approach the northern wall of the peak, then continue moving under the rock outcrop along the snowy slope with a steepness of 30–35°.
This section is dangerous: rockfalls and ice break-offs are possible. Therefore, it is recommended to start the route earlier, so that two-thirds of the path can be overcome before the northern wall of the peak starts to warm up in the sun.
In the upper part of the wall, turn left towards the ice forehead, at the foot of which the first bergschrund is located. Cut a trench to overcome the upper wall and exit onto the ice forehead with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of up to 60 m. Insurance is hook-based (2 ice hooks). Movement is on crampons.
Then exit onto a small snowy area and, turning right towards the rocky outcrop, exit to the foot of the ice forehead. Here is the second open bergschrund.
It can be overcome:
- via a snowy bridge with careful hook insurance,
- by cutting through the hanging upper edge in advance.
Further, move along the ice forehead (up to 55–60°). Insurance is hook-based (3 ice hooks).
After this section, there is an exit onto a snowy slope (up to 30°), and along it — to the third bergschrund. The transition is carried out along unstable avalanche cones with careful insurance. The steepness of the slope increases sharply, reaching up to 50° in some places.
The transition of the fourth bergschrund is done via:
- snowy bridges
- or avalanche cones.
From it, exit onto the snowy cap of the peak. The steepness here reaches 60–65°. The slope is snow-ice with a length of up to 70 m. Insurance is hook-based (3 hooks).
Before exiting onto the peak, there is the fifth bergschrund, and behind it, a sheer snow wall rises to a height of one and a half human heights. It is overcome with the help of cutting a trench. Descent from the peak is via the Tuyuksu pass. The ascent takes 11–12 hours. From the northern side, the first ascent was made on August 15, 1955, by a group of instructors from the Kok Bastau alpine camp, consisting of:
- V. Galkin
- B. Psabekov
- V. Lyashenko
under the leadership of V. Stepanova.
Recommendations:
- Number of participants — no more than 6 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac at 4:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2×40 m
- ice hooks — 6–7 pieces
- hammers —
2
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Climbing routes. Trans-Ili Alatau".
Part 1
From the site Mountain.kz