Panorama from Pik Pioner. From left to right:
- Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m)
- Tuyuk-Su Needles (4213 m)
- Tuyuk-Su Peak (4218 m)
- Pogrebetsky Peak (4231 m)
- Lokomotiv Peak (4182 m)
- Zoya Kosmodemyanskaya Peak (4108 m)
- Molodeжная Peak (4147 m)
Photo: Alexey Ignatenko, Almaty. (Full version — 400 Kb)
Ascent via Tuyuk-Su Pass (1B)
The peak named after one of the outstanding Soviet mountaineers M. T. Pogrebetsky closes the cirque of Tuyuk-Su glacier from the south between Tuyuk-Su Pass and Lokomotiv Peak with its majestic snow-white massif.
The northern slope of Pogrebetsky and adjacent ridges are encased in a powerful armor of snow and ice. Its southern slopes:
- are rocky,
- have a large area of scree,
- descend into the Ozernoe gorge to Mutny and Zmeiny glaciers.
From the initial bivouac on the moraine of Molodezhny Glacier, exit onto Tuyuk-Su Glacier and move along its middle part. Having passed the glacier drop and the massif of Tuyuk-Su Peak, turn left towards the large rocks lying at the foot of the ridge of Tuyuk-Su Peak. From here, ascend to a snowy-ice step and continue on towards Tuyuk-Su Pass, sticking to the middle of the right branch of the glacier: proceed with caution (crevasses!).
At the foot of the slope leading to the pass:
- there is a basal crevasse, it can be bypassed from the right or left.
The ascent to the pass is via broken rocks and scree. The slope gradually becomes more gentle and leads to a large snowy-ice saddle, in the middle of which rocks rise — this is Tuyuk-Su Pass (4100 m), connecting the upper reaches of Tuyuk-Su Glacier with Turistov Glacier. From the initial bivouac to the pass takes 3–4 hours.
From the pass to the summit, move along the southwestern ridge, sticking to its right side. The encountered gendarmes are bypassed on the right. After 200 m, the ridge gradually turns west and turns into a small snowy-ice plateau.
Hazards:
- Many crevasses (caution!).
After crossing the plateau — ascent via snowy-ice rises of medium steepness, after 2.5–3 hours the summit of Pogrebetsky is reached. It should be noted that in August and September, ice sections are exposed on the route, and then from the pass to the summit, crampons should be worn. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 10–11 hours.
The route was first laid on September 14, 1944, by a group of instructors from the mountain training school led by N. Petrovich.
Recommendations for Climbers
- The number of participants is not limited.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of Molodezhny Glacier.
- Departure from bivouac no later than 5:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope 2 × 30 m