Traverse from Molodezhnogo Pass to the peaks of Molodezhnaya and Kosmodemyanskaya (2A)
The description of the beginning of the route from the initial bivouac to the summit of Molodezhnaya is given above. The route continues from the small eastern elevation of the Molodezhnaya summit. Having descended from it about 100 m to the southwest, traverse the rocky ridge and climb up the couloir to the saddle between the Molodezhnaya summit and the Kosmodemyanskaya peak. At the beginning of summer, the saddle is snowy, at the end - ice is exposed. The first group of rocks should be bypassed on the right, the second - on the left. The next stage of the route is going around the rocks on the west side of the ridge of the summit, then along the couloir and further up the broken rocks to rise under the gendarme. Having organized piton belay, traverse it on the west side.
The ascent from the saddle to the summit tower goes first along a 6-meter slab with a steepness of up to 55°, then traverses the wall for 15–20 m towards a steep chute. The most difficult section of the wall is at the very beginning, where you have to go around the outer corner by wedging your hand and foot into a shallow crevice. There are no cracks to ensure piton belay. The walls and chute are covered with snow for most of the season, and by the end of the season, flow ice forms on them. Having descended from the tower along the ascent path, exit to the south ridge and from it down a narrow steep chute up to 10 m long to the beginning of the couloir. Traverse the couloir and the slabs lying behind it in the southeast direction, then cross one of the rocky ridges separating the numerous couloirs on the eastern side of the summit.
Having descended along the heavily broken rocks to the south into the couloir, cross it in the direction of the next rocky ridge, which rises slightly above the talus. Behind it lies one of the branches of the large couloir, leading to the left lateral moraine of the Tuyuk-Su glacier. It should be noted that the talus is almost not compacted, with large rock fragments on it. You should proceed here with extreme caution. The traverse takes 8–10 hours. For the first time this path was taken in 1944 by a group of instructors from the mountain training school led by V. Nearonsky.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants - no more than 10-12 people
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of Molodezhny glacier.
- Departure from bivouac at 4:00.
- Equipment per group of 4 people:
- main rope - 2x30 m
- ice screws - 2–3
- hammers - 2