Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus. Nakhar gorge. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Mt. Shidag-Lingen (3450 m) via the northern ridge. 4. Expected difficulty category — 3B technical difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 520 m Average steepness — 50°–55°. Route length — 840 m. Length of sections with 4th technical difficulty — 60 m 6. Pitons hammered for protection: rock — 29 ice — 0
bolts — 0 7. Number of walking hours: 14 h

Sports team of Voroshilovgradkhimstroy complex Uzunkol alpine camp

REPORT

on the first ascent to the Shidag-Mingen peak via the northern ridge, category 3B, on July 27, 1980 Severodonetsk From the bivouac on the moraine in the cirque of B. Nakhar and Dvuzubka peaks, along the moraine ridge on the left side of the North Nakhar glacier, then ascent to the right and upwards along the glacier to the bergschrund under the couloir leading to Igolchaty pass. 1 hour from the overnight stay. Cross the bridge from right to left (belay), exit to simple rocks and along the talus shelf - under the overhangs on the left side of the couloir. Under the overhangs, along the boundary of rocks and snow, ascent to the start of a 20m 60° chimney. Up the chimney (rocks! pitons!) and then along the 40m 45° inclined slabs (belay), exit to the talus couloir. 200m along the couloir - simultaneous movement - from left to right towards the snow and then 40m upwards along the rocks like "sheep's foreheads" (belay! pitons!). Exit under the finger on the pass (convenient bivouac spot) and then to the pass. This is the I control point. 2 hours from the bergschrund. From Igolchaty pass, along the left side of the wall, 20m 80°, exit to a shelf. From the shelf straight up along a 7m 90° chimney and then along an inclined crack under the overhangs (difficult climbing), exit to a narrow (0.5m) horizontal shelf - 10m under the overhangs (careful belay!). At the end of the shelf is the II control point.

1. Rock climbing category
2. Western Caucasus, Nakhar gorge
3. Bolshoi Nakhar via the northeast wall
4. Proposed category: 6th category of complexity, first ascent
5. Height difference — 930 m, length — 1320 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 730 m Average steepness of main sections 81° (2950–3500), including 6th category of complexity:

• 86°, 60 m (3010–3050);
• 88°, 185 m (3070–3200);
• 90°, 10 m (3230–3240);

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical

2. Region — Western Caucasus

3. Route — Bolshoy Nakhara via 6B category route, 3780 m.

4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1080 m.

• Average steepness: 81°
• Length of complex section: 760 m.

5. Pitons hammered: rock

• 315
• Ice: 0

Ascent Log

I. Ascent category — rock climbing 2. Region — Western Caucasus 3. Route Bolshoi Nakhar (3780 m) via route 6B cat. diff. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1050 m average steepness 80° length of complex section 740 m 5. Pitons used: rock 290, ice —, bolt 11 6. Total climbing hours 61 h

1. Nature of the Ascent

1.1. Class of ascent — rock climbing. 1.2. Area of ascent — Western Caucasus, Nakhar region. 1.3. Peak — B. Nakhar, 3780 m, northwest wall (B. Koralin route). 1.4. Category of complexity — 6B. 1.5. Number of pitons driven: 1) for belaying — 23; 2) for creating artificial climbing holds (ITCH) — 5; 3) rock pitons — 23; 4) ice pitons — 0;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Nakhara region
3. Ascent route — Bolshoi Nakhara peak 3780 m via Northwest wall, 6B category
4. Route characteristics Height difference — 1000 m. Average steepness — 80°. Route length — 1565 m. Length of complex sections — 785 m.
5. Pitons hammered in Rock pitons — 309. Bolt pitons — none. Chocks used — 26.
6. Total climbing hours — 48 h 30 min.
7. Total climbing days — 5 (including one rest day)

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Western Caucasus (from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass).
3. B. Nakhar (3780 m) via the northwest wall.
4. Category 6B difficulty.
5. Height difference: 1000 m, length — 1355 m. The average steepness of the route is 75° (see sheet 3, front side). Length of sections: 150 m — category 6, 330 m — category 5, 400 m — category 4, 210 m — category 3, 250 m — category 1.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | For belay | For creating artificial anchors | | :------------ | :------------- | :------------------------------ |

PASSPORT

Ascent to the summit of Bolshaya Nakhara, completed as part of the USSR Alpine Climbing Championship 1974. Climbing category — Technically challenging Region — Nakhara Valley Route — v. Bolshaya Nakhara via the northwest wall

Characteristics of the ascent:

Height difference — 1000 m Average slope — 80° Length of complex sections — 745 m Total length — 1335 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Uzunkol alpine camp.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate data) — Bolshoy Nakhar peak (3780 m), complexity approximately 6th category of difficulty — via the right part of the northwest wall.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • Route length — 1310 m.
   • Height difference — 1000 m.
   • Average steepness — 78°.
   • Length of complex sections — 805 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 195, ice — 20 into rocks, wooden wedges — 23, placement elements — 6.