Ascent Log

I. Ascent category — rock climbing 2. Region — Western Caucasus 3. Route Bolshoi Nakhar (3780 m) via route 6B cat. diff. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1050 m average steepness 80° length of complex section 740 m 5. Pitons used: rock 290, ice —, bolt 11 6. Total climbing hours 61 h 7. Number of nights 5 8. Team name — combined team of a/l "Alibek" 9. Team members: Korolenko Nikolai Yakovlevich — Master of Sports — team leader Rybalko Vladimir Alekseevich — Candidate for Master of Sports — participant Stadnik Vladimir Fedorovich — Candidate for Master of Sports — participant Khitrinskii Valentin Sergeevich — Candidate for Master of Sports — participant Chegel Vladimir Ivanovich — Candidate for Master of Sports — participant Yankovskii Vladimir Ivanovich — Candidate for Master of Sports — participant 10. Coach — Master of Sports Korolenko Nikolai Yakovlevich 11. Team started the route on August 15, 1976 returned on August 21, 1976

www.alp-federation.ru ↗

From the saddle to the summit leads a route of 3–6 cat. diff.

2. Climbing Conditions in the Nakhar Area

A characteristic feature of the Bolshoi Nakhar peak is the diversity of its slopes in terms of steepness and structure. The northern slopes are the steepest. In the 1976 season, the peak was covered with a significant layer of snow. Due to intense snowmelt, a large part of the wall along the ascent route was flooded with water. Water flowed down the inner corner at sections R3–R5 and around the wall (section R11–R12) in the form of a waterfall.

The second night's bivouac of the Korablin group and the entire section of the route from it to point R12 were exposed to falling ice and rocks. In the Yakovlev V. group, ropes were cut multiple times on these sections.

In light of this, our group decided to pass the specified section (R6–R10) via a new, more complex but less dangerous path. This path goes through an oblique fissure, intersected at points R8–R9 by overhanging cornices. The fissure itself is a destroyed rock layer. Pitons were reliably hammered only above and below the fissure.

Unlike the previous group, we passed the lower part of the route slightly to the left, as the bridge across the randkluft was destroyed, and the snow along the rocks had melted significantly, exposing smooth rocks. Section R2–R3 is a 20 m high wall consisting of destroyed rocks. At section R3–R4, the rocks are monolithic with sufficient cracks for pitons. The middle part of the route has few handholds and cracks, and section R12–R13, stretching 115 m, is almost a smooth mirror without cracks and with very few handholds.

In good weather, the route is sunlit only in the lower part, and only early in the morning and late in the evening. The rest of the wall is constantly in the shade. During the ascent, the weather was bad for the first two days. At times, wet snow and rain fell. The peak was covered in fog. In the remaining days, the weather somewhat improved, but precipitation still occurred.

3. Preliminary Preparation and Reconnaissance

The core of the group consisted of athletes from the Kiev SDSO "Zenit," who had experience in complex joint ascents in the Caucasus mountains.

In preparation for the ascent, diverse products were selected, personal and shared equipment was checked and tested, and route maps and photographs were studied. Detailed consultations and recommendations were obtained from participants of the Yakovlev V. group.

For several days, systematic observation of the route was organized. Sections prone to falling ice and rocks and their frequency were studied. The path for the intended descent from the summit was reconnoitered.

4. Organizational and Tactical Plan

The group composition for the trip to the Bolshoi Nakhar peak was determined to be 16 people. The duration of the trip was planned for 12 days, with 7 days allocated for the ascent. Accordingly, food and bivouac equipment were selected based on this plan.

The ascent duration was planned with consideration for passing certain, most dangerous sections of the route via new paths. Additionally, the route was significantly complicated by water flows across sections R4–R7 and R10–R11.

Overnight stays were planned in hammocks and a tent. The following work plan was developed for the route:

• On the first day, the lower part of the route is processed with a double returning to the base camp.
• Then, the first double continues to ascend the route, while the rest of the group organizes the transport and pulling of backpacks with supplies.
• The entire group works in close coordination.
• When passing the route, the first climber is insured with a double rope.
• A double rope is also used for hanging vertical fixed ropes.

After passing the wall up to section R7, excess equipment is packed into a backpack and dropped to the base of the wall onto the snowfield. Overnight stays were planned at the locations of previous groups' bivouacs, Korablin and Yakovlev. An exception was the second Korablin bivouac, as it was not planned to be used.

The ascent plan was largely executed as planned.

5. Support Group and its Tasks

Support group composition:

1. Yarovoi I. — Candidate for Master of Sports — leader
2. Galasa I. — 1st sports category — participant
3. Epifanov E. — 1st sports category — participant
4. Khoroshilov V. — 1st sports category — participant

The group conducted visual observation of the assault group and maintained radio communication with them using "Vitalka" radios. Communication with a/l "Alibek" was carried out via the "Nedra" radio station. Communication was maintained regularly.

6. Route Progression

First day — August 15, 1976 At 8:00, the Stadnik—Chegel double starts processing the route. The approach to the base of the wall takes 35 minutes. Under the rocks, there is a huge randkluft turning into a bergschrund near the snowfield. The randkluft can only be crossed via a small snow bridge. The first 80 m (section R0–R1) of the rock island are smoothed monolithic rocks with a steepness of 45–50°. Insurance was provided through pitons. Further, a wall with a steepness of 80° begins. Bypassing the wall to the right over ice is dangerous due to falling rocks and ice fragments. The wall is climbed using complex climbing techniques with the aid of ladders. The upper part of the wall is destroyed. Above the rock island, the rope team approaches the base of the main wall. The route goes through vertical monolithic rocks, to the left of the inner corner with water flows. Climbing is very complex, using artificial holds. After 40 m, there is a small platform for organizing an intermediate belay point. Insurance is provided only through pitons. From the platform (section R3–R4), the ascent goes straight up a vertical wall with an indistinct counterfort along the inner corner to a narrow shelf. After securing double fixed ropes, the double begins descent and returns to the base camp at 18:00. Preparations for the group's exit onto the route are finalized in the camp.

2nd day — August 16, 1976 At 7:00, the first double, Stadnik—Chegel, with a supply of ropes, pitons, and carabiners, exits onto the route. Later, the others bring up backpacks with food and equipment.

From the R4 shelf, Chegel moves 8 m up and to the right and climbs a vertical wall to a ledge. Then, along a narrow ledge to the right to a large inner corner. Water flows down the corner like a waterfall. The steepness of the corner is 75–80°, and the rocks are destroyed. Entering the corner involves passing under an overhanging wet and slippery rock. Two bolt pitons are hammered into the rock. Chegel passes the overhanging section using ladders, with insurance on a double rope, and climbing is very complex. In the corner, Chegel takes a cold shower — working in the lower part of the corner under the waterfall. Climbing aids and ladders are used. 30 m of the corner are passed with great difficulty. Further, it becomes possible to move 2 m to the right of the corner and climb relatively drier vertical rocks. The ascent continues using ladders and thorough piton insurance. Stadnik also gets completely wet as water sprinkles over the entire part of the wall and additionally flows along the rope. After 10 m, Chegel organizes an intermediate belay point. Stadnik takes the lead. On the right side of the corner, the ascent continues over smoothed vertical rocks to a wide crack. Water flows both down the wall and the crack.

From this point, the double descends using double fixed ropes. Meanwhile, the other participants organize cargo pulling to the shelf. They also get quite wet as a light rain falls in the second half of the day. A decision is made for the entire group to descend to the base camp to dry.

3rd day — August 17, 1976 At 6:00, the group exits onto the route almost simultaneously. The first double, Rybalko—Yankovskii, goes first. They climb the fixed ropes to the final belay point of the previous day. From here, the path of the first ascenders and the Yakovlev group goes to the right via a chimney, leading to a more gradual part of the wall and the second bivouac.

The route is completely flooded with water. Additionally, according to the previous group's accounts, this section is objectively dangerous. Rocks and pieces of ice frequently hit this part of the wall. Our group decided to attempt to pass this section via a new route through a fissure crossing the wall. The first 15 m are passed relatively freely. Further, the fissure goes steeply upwards. Good handholds are scarce. The wall reflects, and one has to climb under the overhanging upper edge of the fissure. The first rope team passes 30 m with great effort.

Meanwhile, Stadnik and Chegel organize the transfer of fixed ropes from the wet corner directly onto the wall, securing them at the end of the gentle section of the fissure. This complicates the ascent as 80 m of fixed ropes are positioned 8–10 m away from the wall, but it avoids the wet corner. The group gathers for the night on a shelf (R4). The bivouac is semi-reclined and combined.

4th day — August 18, 1976 The Stadnik—Chegel double goes first. After passing the hung fixed ropes, Stadnik continues through the fissure. Meter by meter, he navigates complex sections. Often, there are vertical walls 3–4 m high. A diverse range of pitons is used for insurance. In some cases, where there are no cracks, bolt pitons are hammered.

A key section of the fissure is the cornice (R8–R9). To overcome it requires all mountaineering skill; work is done only on ladders. Cracks exist only for thin pitons. Slightly above the cornice, a crack is intersected by a vertical ridge. Overcoming it is associated with significant technical and psychological challenges. Work is done over a 400 m deep abyss. There are no convenient ledges or platforms in the fissure.

The fissure gradually becomes very difficult to pass. Section R9–R10 is a 20 m high vertical wall consisting of large blocks. Further, it becomes more gradual, and along monolithic slabs, the rope team reaches the bivouac at the 120-meter wall.

Khitrinskii also reaches here with warm clothing and food. Korolenko, Yankovskii, and Rybalko bivouac at the start of the fissure.

5th day — August 19, 1976 At 8:00, the Chegel—Stadnik double starts processing the 120-meter vertical wall. From the platform, the shlymbur pitons of previous ascenders are not visible. Chegel moves slightly to the left and starts climbing difficult rocks. Climbing is very complex.

At the 40 m level, it is possible to move to the right behind a ridge. Here, a bolt trail from the Korablin and Yakovlev groups is found. Pitons are not hammered regularly, with large intervals. Stadnik climbs here. Chegel uses a duralumin platform and ladders. In some sections, there is complex free climbing. Stadnik provides insurance, hanging in a harness. The remaining 80 m of the wall are passed successfully, and the double hangs fixed ropes. The others lift cargo to the platform. Backpacks were pulled throughout the entire ascent from the rock island using ropes and a block-and-tackle system. On the inclined fissure, backpacks had to be swung to the vertical and then lifted.

By 17:00, the entire group assembles on the platform under the wall. After discussing the further plan, they settle in for the night. Accommodation:

• four people — in a tent.
• Rybalko — in a hammock.
• Stadnik — in a small cave under the platform.

6th day — August 20, 1976 At 8:00, Stadnik and Chegel move upwards, while the others organize pulling backpacks up the wall. Above the wall, the route goes through a series of inner corners. Monolithic rocks alternate with large living slabs. Having overcome the most complex sections and hung fixed ropes, the first double helps pull the backpacks along them. The group reaches the 3rd Korablin bivouac. Here, the cargo is distributed among participants, and the group moves towards the summit in doubles. In the control tour, there is a note from Khoroshilov's support group and friendly wishes.

The descent goes along the ridge with relatively simple rocks. They stop for the night in the lower part of the ridge.

7th day — August 21, 1976 After breakfast at 7:00, the group continues descending towards the lake and returns to the base camp by 11:30.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to v. Bolshoi Nakhar, 6 cat. diff.