Fig. 26
- Uilpata (4648 m) via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 26).
From the bivouac on the plateau (closed crevasses), bypass the Bivouachnaya peak from the left (north) and approach the Uilpatinsky Pass, located between Uilpata on the left and the CDS peak on the right.
- Traverse the plateau and cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge (protection required)
- Ascend a steep, 250–300-meter snow slope to the Uilpatinsky Pass
Time from the initial bivouac: 2–3 hours.
The path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut or on the scree - Uilpatinsky overnight stays - is described in route 83.
From the Uilpatinsky overnight stays, traverse the snow plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey Glacier, bypassing the southeastern slopes of Uilpata. Approach the right side of the broad saddle of the Uilpatinsky Pass, connecting Uilpata on the right with the CDS peak on the left. Turn right and ascend a gentle snow slope to the right side of the long, narrow rocky ridges descending from the right side of the Uilpatinsky Pass between the ice falls of hanging glaciers.
Glaciers:
- The left glacier descends directly from the pass
- The right glacier - from the Southwest Ridge of Uilpata
Continue:
- Via simple but steep, heavily damaged rocks on the right rocky ridge ("live" stones - protection required)
- Or via the ice-snow slope to the right of it
- Then, via a steep (protection required), gradually flattening ice-snow slope, reach the broad snow saddle of the pass
Time from the Uilpatinsky overnight stays: 4–5 hours.
On the pass, when ascending from the Karaugom plateau, turn left and traverse the broad snow saddle to the southwest ridge of Uilpata. Follow the broad, long, gentle snow-covered southwest ridge, then ascend a 30–40-meter rise to the summit. Time from the pass: 1–2 hours. Descent is via the ascent route.
Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.