V. Uilpata

4648 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Mt. Uilpata via the ice gully along the Southern ridge "3B" (c)

Tomsk, 2008

Participants:

Temerev I.M. Terekhin V.A.

Table of Contents

Postal address and name of the person to be notified of classification results (preferably an email address)

• Full name: Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich
• Postal address: 634058, Tomsk, Kuzovlevo, Teplichnaya st., 1, apt. 2
• Email: ivantem@ngs.ru
• Mobile: (8–923) 414–46–34

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Tsey valley.
2. Mt. Uilpata, ice gully along the Southern ridge.
3. Proposed route category 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice.
5. Height difference — 800 m.

Route length — 1200 m. Section lengths:

Average slope:

• main part of the route — 45° (degrees)
• entire route — 40° (degrees)

6. Pitons left on the route:

• total — 0; including bolt pitons — 0 pcs.

Pitons used on the route:

• rock — 0 pcs., including standing pitons — 0 pcs.;
• ice — 10 pcs.

7. Team's total climbing time: 4 hours, 1 day.
8. Participants:

• Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
• Terekhin Vasily Andreevich — 1st sports category

9. Coach: Novoselova G.V.

10. Route start: 4:50 AM, July 26, 2007.

Summit reached: 8:50 AM, July 26, 2007. Return to Base Camp: 12:30 PM, July 26, 2007.

11. Organization: Tomsk Federation of Alpinism.

General view photo of the summit. Taken from Mt. Adaihoh. Route profile photo. Taken from the northern branch of the Tsey glacier. UIAA symbol route diagram. Route description by sections. Time breakdown: 3:30 — departure from camp at Uilpata bivouac, 4:50 — crossing the glacier near a rocky outcrop at the start of the route through a snow-covered bergschrund, 5:50 — reaching a rocky ledge to the left of the first turn in the gully. R1 6:20, R2 7:00, R3 7:40, R4 8:30, R5 8:50 — summit, 12:30 — descent to camp.

3:30 AM departure from camp at Uilpata bivouac. Heading to Uilpata for the first time, so navigating through crevasses in the dark was challenging. Immediately from the moraine, we went in a rope team. Put on crampons under a rocky outcrop at the start of the route. The abundance of small stones on the snow roll-down tracks from the gully was concerning.

• R1. 200 m, category 3, 30–35°, simultaneous movement on ice and firn. Stayed to the right. After about 100 meters, a rock fell from above and knocked an ice axe out of someone's hand. This incident made us cautious — it was 5 AM, cold — and we wondered where the rocks were coming from. We moved closer to the rocks and proceeded in short bursts. Maybe we should have stayed to the left from the start. Crossed the gully near its bend and reached a safe scree ledge to the left. From here, the entire gully is visible up to the exit onto the pre-summit ridge. Noticed that between the ice and the wall of the Southern ridge, a small stream runs, which was throwing down rocks.
• R2. 200 m, category 3+, 35–40°, simultaneous movement on ice. Moved closer to the left edge and proceeded directly. Rocks occasionally fell from the right, but soon stopped.
• R3. 250 m, category 4, 40°, simultaneous movement.
• R4. 150 m, category 4+, 50°. Steepest ice section.
• R5. 200 m, category 4, 45°.
• R6. 200 m, category 2, 35°, exit onto the pre-summit ridge.

When approaching the route, consider that the lower part of the gully is objectively rockfall-prone and, with abundant snow, also avalanche-prone. The team should be no larger than 4 people and very mobile.

Descent from the summit via a category 2B route.

• Photo #3 (technical photo of the route) — general view and route thread. Taken from the Mamisontsverg summit ridge.
• Photo #4 (technical photo of the route)
• Photo #5 — photos of route sections
• Photo #6 — view of R2–R5
• Photo #7 — R3
• Photo #8 — R4
• Photo #9 — R4
• Photo #10 — at the summit
• Photo #11 — at the summit

Notes

Found a note from Egorin S.V.'s group, who climbed 5B as part of the Russian Championship. The note was lost.