Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent region — Khibiny Mountains.
3. Peak, its height and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, along the N wall of the E ridge of Takhtarvumchorr ridge; 1143.5 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m. walls — Route length: rock/snow and ice. II — 350 m III — 80 m Average slope of the wall: overall 60°
6. Pitons driven: for rock protection — 16 chocks — 3 ice screws — 2 Including used for artificial protection points — 1
7. Number of climbing hours — 4 h 15 min.
8. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification:
   1. Shumilov Oleg Ivanovich — leader, Master of Sports;
   2. Proskura Alexander Yakovlevich — participant, 1st sports category.
9. Team coach — Shumilov O.I., Master of Sports, category I instructor.
10. Dates: January 31, 1992 Description of the first ascent of a 2B category difficulty route, combined, polar. Takhtarvumchorr ridge along the northern wall of the eastern ridge (or along the "Horns"). January 31, 1991

14:05 approached and went behind the 1st spur of the Takhtarvumchorr ridge. Climbed steep snow — 150 m.

Landmark between the two "horns" — vertical. Climbed one rope length vertically up with a steepness of 60–70° — 40 m.

Exit to gray overhanging rocks — control point #1.

Protection via ice screws (2 pitons).

Bypass gray overhanging rocks on the left (3 chocks and 8 pitons) — exit to the next ledge — 60 m.

Traverse left — 40 m.

Then traverse right along an inclined ledge 60–80 m to gray vertical walls.

Along the inner corner left of the gray rocks (traverse — 6 pitons) — 20 m — exit to a ledge covered with snow.

Another 20 m along destroyed rocks covered with snow and Khibiny rime — exit to a spur and along it to the summit — 800–1000 m.

All ascents are made directly up the center.

18:10. Exit to the summit 18:55.

Four ascents on the ridge are made in the central part. Closer to the summit, the ridge narrows.

Beware — cornices on the right.

Descent at 15° towards Geografov Pass.

Pitons driven — 16 Chocks — 3 pcs. Route length — 1410 m. Ascent time — 4 h 15 min.

Ascent team:

1. Shumilov O.I. — Master of Sports, category I instructor.
2. Proskura A.Ya. — 1st sports category, category III instructor.

Equipment:

1. Main ropes: — 1 × 40 m, 12 mm, FRG — 1 pc. — 1 × 40 m, 8 mm, FRG — 1 pc.
2. Expendable cordelette — 5 m.
3. Ice axes — 2 pcs.
4. Rock pitons — 14 pcs.
5. Crampons — 2 pairs.
6. Ice screws — 2 pcs.
7. Carabiners — 20 pcs.
8. First aid kit — 1 set.
9. Down jackets, warm clothing — 2 sets.
10. Backpacks — 2 pcs.
11. Skis — 2 pairs.
12. Ski poles — 2 pairs.
13. Windproof masks — 2 pcs.
14. Ski goggles — 2 pcs.
15. Tent — 1 pc.
16. Harness — 2 pcs.
17. Runners — 5 pcs.
18. Self-belay loops — 2 pcs.
19. Stove — 1 pc.
20. Fur gloves — 2 pairs.
21. Matches, candles.
22. Headlamps — 2 pcs.
23. Pot — 1 pc.
24. Chocks — 10 pcs.
25. Prusiks — 2 pcs.
26. Helmets — 2 pcs.
27. Chock removal device — 1 pc.
28. Rock hammer — 1 pc.
29. Ice hammer — 1 pc.
30. Thermos — 2 pcs.