I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Range. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via the ice wall 3 cat. complexity, ice and snow route. 4. Estimated cat. complexity — LA 5– (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. complexity — 610 m. Average steepness — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock 9, chocks 18, ice screws 110 7. Climbing hours: 14.5 hours; days — 2 8. Overnights: 1st in a hut on Uchitel glacier (processing).

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North wall.
4. 6B complexity category.

Description

of the ascent to the peak "SEL'MASHEVETS" 2–6 category of difficulty. 14200 15 — 3–63 From the city of Frunze, we arrive at the "Issyk-Ata" resort. From the resort, the path lies along the right (orographic) bank of the river to the edge of the forest, located on the left bank of the river. From here, a view opens up to the gorge and the peak "KONEV" (on the right). At this point, we should cross to the left bank of the river, where we can make a halt. In the middle of the "Issyk-Ata" gorge stands the peak "BOTVEY", with sheer walls dividing the gorge into two branches. From the halt, the path goes through the meadow in the direction of the right branch of the gorge. Having reached a large boulder standing alone on the meadow, we turn left and descend down the scree to the river. Further, the path goes upstream along the river under the overhanging bank. At this point, we should be particularly cautious and attentive, as rockfalls or landslides are possible, especially after rain. We cross to the right bank of the river and ascend to the foot of a steep moraine, where we can rest at the edge of the forest. The approach to the moraine takes 4–5 hours. The ascent up the moraine is done closer to the left (in the direction of travel) side. The gorge gradually narrows. We overcome the last moraine ridge and enter the "BOTVEY" cirque. The ascent up the moraine to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. We set up camp on the "BOTVEY" glacier near the lake. The campsite is very convenient and safe. It takes 10–15 minutes to walk from the tents to the foot of the pass. The ascent to the pass via the middle scree takes about an hour. We form rope teams on the pass. The path from the pass goes along the scree beside the rocky outcrops — gendarmes — on the right (in the direction of travel) side. The movement along this section includes the following stages:

• The first and second gendarmes are bypassed with belay through rocky outcrops.

Photo of the wall on the left. Taken on February 17, 1988 at 18:00. "Triplet" lens, Φ = 40 mm, distance 2 km, height 4300 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — ice and snow
2. Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too range
3. Peak Auézov (5967 m) via the ice "board" on the Eastern wall
4. Complexity category — approximately 5B, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1267 m. Length of sections with III cat. diff. — 795 m, their average steepness — 48°
6. Pitons driven: Rock Chocks Ice 1/0 9/0 105/0
7. Climbing hours — 16.5, days — 2

Panorama of the Researchers Glacier www.alpfederation.ru

3. Climbing Conditions and Tactics

The West Kok-Shaal-Tau region, like the entire Tian Shan, is characterized by:

• heavily fragmented rocks,
• ice collapses,
• an abundance of dry, powdery snow. In connection with this, it was necessary to prepare for overcoming rockfall-prone areas and for extensive ice and snow work. The weather in this region is not very stable. Often, in the second half of the day, it deteriorates, and clouds envelop the peaks of Chon-Tarasu, Dankov, and nearby peaks.

Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Tian Shan, western Kokshaal-Too
3. Peak Chernogolovka via the center of the S wall (4825 m)
4. Proposed category 4B, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1425 m. Distance — 2000 m. Distance of category 5 sections — 50 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 50°
6. Pitons hammered: rock 11, chocks 7, ice screws 4
7. Climbing hours 14 and 1 day.
8. Overnight stays: none.

TO THE QUALIFICATION COMMISSION OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF RUSSIA

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Kosmos via the center of the North wall, presumably category 6B, by the team of the St. Petersburg Alpine Federation from September 26, 2021, to October 2, 2021.

I. Ascent Passport

1. Materials about the Semenov Peak area

Semenov Peak (5816 m), one of the most famous peaks in the Central Tian Shan, is located in the eastern part of the Sarydzhas ridge in the upper reaches of the eponymous glacier. The huge glaciated mass of Semenov Peak is the highest point of this ridge. East of Semenov Peak, in the Sarydzhas ridge, rises a two-headed peak (5437 m) - an important orographic node of Tian Shan. Here, the Terskey Alatau ridge (under the name of Katta-Ashutor) connects with Sarydzhas. The orography of the Semenov Peak area is incorrectly shown on:

• the map of military topographers from 1943
• in the articles by A. Letavet and Timoshev "Conquest of the Marble Wall Peak"
• in the diagram by Nozdryukhin, etc. The true structure of this area was first shown on the diagram by V. Kolokolnikov (1953). And to the west (approximately 5 km away) is the unnamed peak "5488 m", which is also a photographic node (the Adyr-Tor ridge branches off from it, serving as a watershed between the Semenov and Mushketov glaciers). In addition to the two main ridges mentioned, a powerful southeast spur branches off from the peak, from which in turn further branch off:

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.