Description

of the ascent to the peak "SEL'MASHEVETS" 2–6 category of difficulty. 14200 15 — 3–63

From the city of Frunze, we arrive at the "Issyk-Ata" resort. From the resort, the path lies along the right (orographic) bank of the river to the edge of the forest, located on the left bank of the river. From here, a view opens up to the gorge and the peak "KONEV" (on the right). At this point, we should cross to the left bank of the river, where we can make a halt.

In the middle of the "Issyk-Ata" gorge stands the peak "BOTVEY", with sheer walls dividing the gorge into two branches. From the halt, the path goes through the meadow in the direction of the right branch of the gorge. Having reached a large boulder standing alone on the meadow, we turn left and descend down the scree to the river. Further, the path goes upstream along the river under the overhanging bank. At this point, we should be particularly cautious and attentive, as rockfalls or landslides are possible, especially after rain.

We cross to the right bank of the river and ascend to the foot of a steep moraine, where we can rest at the edge of the forest. The approach to the moraine takes 4–5 hours. The ascent up the moraine is done closer to the left (in the direction of travel) side. The gorge gradually narrows.

We overcome the last moraine ridge and enter the "BOTVEY" cirque. The ascent up the moraine to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. We set up camp on the "BOTVEY" glacier near the lake. The campsite is very convenient and safe. It takes 10–15 minutes to walk from the tents to the foot of the pass.

The ascent to the pass via the middle scree takes about an hour. We form rope teams on the pass. The path from the pass goes along the scree beside the rocky outcrops — gendarmes — on the right (in the direction of travel) side. The movement along this section includes the following stages:

• The first and second gendarmes are bypassed with belay through rocky outcrops.
• When bypassing the third gendarme, piton belay is used.
• The bypass of the fourth gendarme — also on the right — ends with an exit under a window.

After 4–5 pitches of a moderately difficult rock wall with piton belay, we exit through the window to the left side of the ridge. The pre-summit ridge begins from the window.

Further movement goes along the avalanche-prone left slope of the ridge (belay through ice axe or rocky outcrops), bypassing all rocky islands and gendarmes. Before the last gendarme, we cross to the right side of the ridge (in the direction of travel) into a hollow. The ascent to the summit begins from the hollow. The summit is a rocky massif.

The descent is done via the ascent route.