Ascent Log

1. Zaalai Ridge, Kichkesu gorge, Pograniqnikov settlement area, 4.4 (2008)
2. Peak 4800 m (proposed name: Mereckii Peak), via "Srednii Galstuk" (Middle Tie) on the NE wall.
3. Proposed category: 4A, first ascent.
4. The route is combined.
5. Height difference: 500 m. Distance: 950 m. Average steepness: 40°.
6. 2 pitons left on the descent from the summit tower.
7. Climbing time: 4.5 hours.
8. Team leader: Koshelenko Yu. — Honored Master of Sports.

TRAVERSE OF PEAKS:

• «5100 m»
• «5200 m»
• «5340 m»
• «5689 m (Egorova V.P.)»
• «5900 m»
• «RAZDELNAYA»
• «LENINA 7134 m»
• «Lipkin ROCK» Cat. 5B, for the Spartacus Championship of the Central Council of the DSO in 1970.

Route Description

Ascent to the summit "5149"

Via the north-west ridge. Cat. diff. 1B. Depart from the base camp no later than 7:00 am. The base camp is located at an altitude of 4200 m near the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier at Serebrennny stream on the right orographic side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the summit, the Kок-Сай river is forded. The duration of the journey to the foot is about 1 hour. The path to the summit begins along the slope of 25°–30° of the NW ridge in the direction of the shoulder before the first steep rise of the ridge. The slope is covered with medium scree. Once on the ridge, rope up! The height of the shoulder is about 4700 m. The duration of the path from the foot is approximately 1 hour 30 minutes. Then move along the ridge towards the summit. The first section of the ridge rises at an angle of 45° for 50–60 m and is a not very wide (3–4 m) snow patch with individual protruding rocks. Insurance is simultaneous. Next begins the 1st rocky section of the ridge, rising with 3 walls 4–7 meters high and alternating between them with more gentle sections covered with snow. The average steepness of the section is 25°–30°. Insurance when overcoming rocky ascents is alternating, via rock outcrops. Further, the ridge widens, slightly drops, and then rises again at an angle of 10°–15° and is covered with snow. There follows a snowy ascent of the ridge with a steepness of 45°–50°, then a pre-summit section with a steepness of 25°, also snowy with individual protruding rocks. The width of the ridge allows simultaneous movement in rope teams. The last 100–120 meters to the summit are almost flat, with a slight ascent, and feature broken rocks. The summit consists of broken rocks. The time taken from the point of exit onto the ridge (shoulder before the first ascent of the ridge) to the summit is 2–2.5 hours.

traverse of peaks 5150 m and 5100 m from east to west. Peaks 5150 and 5100 m are located in the main ridge of the western part of the Zavlaisky ridge and close the Kок-Kyik gorge. The traverse is made from east to west. 1st day: approaches from the intermediate base camp of the Sverdlovsk expedition (3800 m), located in the upper reaches of the X Kок-Kyik gorge near the lake, under the beginning of the route. Overnight on the moraine, height 4200 m. 2nd day: exit at 6:00 am through a stream flowing from under the glacier, which descends from the slopes of peaks 5600 m (loss of height up to 100 m), then ascent to the glacier and firn slope into the gap between peaks 5600 and 5150 m. Route features:

• Traverse in good weather conditions takes 9 hours.
• In bad weather, there are places for a tent practically along the entire route.
• The glacier is crossed in a rope team, as there are closed crevices.
• The firn slope has a steepness of 35 to 50°.
• From the foot to the upper part of the pass requires about 3 hours.

From the summit 5100 m there is a series of descents and ascents to the snowy narrow ridge "strelka" and along it a descent into the circus, onto the glacier. The time taken to complete the route from the summit 5100 m to the glacier takes 2 hours. On both sides of the snowy ridge "strelka" the slope is avalanche-prone, requiring great caution. The group mastered the route 3A cat. sl. Recommended equipment for a group of 4 people. Rope 40 m - 2 pcs. Ice screws - 2 pcs. Hammers - 2 pcs. Crampons - 4 pairs. Tent - 1 pc. The description was compiled by A. Kiselev

Ascent via the northern slope, descent to Profsoyuzov pass. Cat. diff. 2A.

Day 1

Departure at 10:00 from the base camp located at an altitude of 4200 m below the tongue of Oktyabrsky glacier on the right (orogr.) side of the valley. The path leads along the right side of Oktyabrsky glacier, first along the lateral moraine, then along the right bank of the Kok-Sai river. Just before the glacier, which flows from Profsoyuzov pass, one needs to ascend to the right lateral moraine and reach the glacier along it. Then, turn left and ascend along the right side of the covered glacier to an altitude of about 5000 m. In the middle part of the glacier, there are many wide crevasses. The path must be found between the crevasse zone and the avalanche cones descending from the right (orogr.) from the slope of peak "5538". Movement on the glacier is in rope teams, with simultaneous belay. Crossing crevasses is done with alternate belay. The bivouac is set up in the middle part, slightly below Profsoyuzov pass, at an altitude of about 5000 m. The duration of the path from the base camp to the bivouac is 5–6 hours.

Day 2

Route Description

Ascent to peak "5812" via the western ridge

Cat. difficulty 2B

Day 1

Departure at 15:00 from the base camp located at an altitude of 4200 m below the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier on the right orographic side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the peak, two branches of the Kok-Sai River are forded. The duration of the path to the foot is about 1 hour. The path to the summit begins along the gully of a stream flowing from a snowfield located in the cirque between the S and W ridges. The slope is 10°–15°. Further, the path goes along a slope of 30°–35° towards the S counterfort of the W ridge. The slope is covered with medium-sized scree. The overnight camping spot is chosen at an altitude of about 4800 m on the S slope of the W ridge, where a campsite can be set up with a small amount of labor and there are snowfields to fetch water. The duration of the path from the base camp to the overnight camping spot is 3.5–4 hours.

Ascent via the South Ridge, category 3A.

Day 1

Departure at 15:00 from the base camp located at 4200 m under the tongue of the Oktyabrsky Glacier on the right (orographic) side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the summit, the branches of the Kok-Sai River are forded twice. The duration of the path to the foot of the summit is 1 hour. The path to the summit begins on the southwest slope via a couloir covered with medium scree. The steepness of the ascent is initially 20°, then increases to 35°. The overnight stop is chosen at an altitude of around 5100 m on the slope leading to the south ridge. There, with some effort, a campsite can be constructed, and there are snowfields for obtaining water. The duration of the path from the base camp to the overnight stop is 4–5 hours.

Day 2

Departure at 4:30 AM up the slope with a steepness of 30°–40°, covered with snow and small scree, in the direction of the south ridge. Movement is in rope teams. The duration of the path to the ridge is up to 1 hour. Movement along the ridge is in rope teams to the left in the direction of the summit. Insurance is simultaneous. Initially, the ridge is a rocky ridge with a slight steepness of ascent. Movement is with simultaneous insurance through rocks.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Trans-Alay Range. Valley of the Kichkesu River (Left Kichkesu Glacier). Section number according to the classification table — 4.4
2. Name of the summit: 5395.5 m. Proposed — Peak Semen Dvornichenko. Route: Via the SE ridge from the Left Kichkesu Glacier.
3. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Character of the route: ice and snow.
5. Elevation gain of the route: 880 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 4200 m. Length of sections with III category of difficulty — 850 m. Steepness: main part of the route up to 40°.
6. Pitons used on the route: rock — 0, ice — 57, including ATO — 0.
7. Team's moving hours: 20 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Trans-Alay Range, Achik-Tash gorge, category 4.4 according to the 2017 classification table.
2. Unnamed peak 4825 m, proposed name — Aleksey Didurov Peak, named after the famous Russian poet, via the North face and North-East ridge. Peak coordinates: 39.454557 72.957681, GPS altitude 4834 m. No cairn or note was found on the summit. Information about previous ascents is not available.
3. Proposed category — 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice and snow.
5. Route elevation gain: 530 m according to GPS. Route length: 850 m. Section lengths:
   • Category V — 0 m.
   • Category VI — 0 m.