Ascent via the northern slope, descent to Profsoyuzov pass. Cat. diff. 2A.

Day 1

Departure at 10:00 from the base camp located at an altitude of 4200 m below the tongue of Oktyabrsky glacier on the right (orogr.) side of the valley.

The path leads along the right side of Oktyabrsky glacier, first along the lateral moraine, then along the right bank of the Kok-Sai river.

Just before the glacier, which flows from Profsoyuzov pass, one needs to ascend to the right lateral moraine and reach the glacier along it.

Then, turn left and ascend along the right side of the covered glacier to an altitude of about 5000 m.

In the middle part of the glacier, there are many wide crevasses. The path must be found between the crevasse zone and the avalanche cones descending from the right (orogr.) from the slope of peak "5538".

Movement on the glacier is in rope teams, with simultaneous belay. Crossing crevasses is done with alternate belay.

The bivouac is set up in the middle part, slightly below Profsoyuzov pass, at an altitude of about 5000 m. The duration of the path from the base camp to the bivouac is 5–6 hours.

Day 2

Departure from the overnight stay in the morning at 6:00. The ascent begins along the slope of peak "5538" in the direction of rocky outcrops. Three rocky outcrops are overcome on the way.

Sections between the rocky outcrops are covered with icy snow. The rocks are about 45–50° steep, heavily destroyed. Movement on the rocks is alternate, belay through outcrops. Movement along the avalanche-prone snowy slope is with simultaneous belay and increased interval. On both sides of the path, there are huge snow cornices.

After the last rocky outcrop, the steepness of the slope decreases, and the path leads to the summit.

The summit is a snowy ridge, the southern part of which overhangs with a large cornice.

The duration of the path from the overnight stay to the summit takes about 6 hours.

Descent to the west along a gentle snowy ridge to Profsoyuzov pass, from where one needs to descend to the bivouac at an altitude of 5000 m. Movement is in rope teams, with simultaneous belay. The duration of the descent to the bivouac is 2 hours.

Further descent to the base camp along the ascent path takes 3–4 hours.

Conclusion

The conquered summit was of medium difficulty. The route was snowy and rocky.

The difficulties were: great steepness of the slope (45–50°), absolute height, and the nature of the snow.

Taking these factors into account, we propose to evaluate the ascent to peak "5538" via the northern slope as cat. diff. 2A.

Group composition:

1. AGASILD E.A. (leader)
2. ORA L.
3. VAREL P.F.
4. SULG A.A.

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