I. Rock grade 20: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45° 35: Borisov E.I. — Candidate Master of Sports, instructor. Lukin A.A. — 3rd sports grade, Launitc D.V. — 3rd sports grade, Luneva R.A. — 3rd sports grade, Baymølin G.A. — 2nd sports grade. 10. Team coach — MS Kuznetsova N.P. II. Date of departure on the route and return — April 30, 1982. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Pokemsky ridge. Piazak 3. v. Piazak, 3718 m, from the saddle of the Northern ridge. 4. Category of difficulty 2B, 15 rock 5. Route characteristics:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Pskem Ridge.
3. Ascent route — peak 3550 via the northern ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics — height difference — 1200 m, average slope — 35°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 2 ice — bolt —

I.V. Ildar 45 °С grade leader Khur­sandov A., 1992

Bau-besh-ata, 4485 m, 2B. Location: pr. 120905.15/3-637. Compiled by: Nekrasov G. To the north of Jalal-Abad city, above the north-eastern edge of the Fergana valley, rises the Bau-besh-ata mountain massif. The highest peak of this massif is Peak Weber (Bau-besh-ata or Bak-bash-ata), named after a prominent Soviet geologist-academician. The foot of Peak Weber, like the entire Bau-besh-ata massif, is covered with walnut forests - the largest walnut forests in the world. The main watershed of the massif, which also passes through the peak, branches off from the main ridge of the Fergana range to the southwest, thus forming a separate spur. The entire massif is composed of limestone (marbleized) with a monolithic structure.

Approaches

From Jalal-Abad, you can drive by car through Bazar-Kurgan and along the Kara-Utur river to the famous Arslan-Bob tract in Central Asia. From Arslan-Bob, you need to walk north along the Arslan-Bob river on a trail. In the upper reaches, the trail crosses to the left bank (orographically) and heads east. The trail leads to a grassy plateau located directly under Bau-besh-ata. The base camp should be set up on the plateau near one of the springs.

Ascent Route

From the base camp, we ascend along the grassy slope to the right towards the ridge. The altitude gain along the grassy slope is 200–250 m. There are rock outcrops on the ridge. We follow the ridge north and reach a scree slope, and then below the rocks. We ascend the rocks by 5–6 m and then move to the right and up along a wide ledge, bypassing large rocks. After 30–40 m of ascent, we enter a couloir. The ascent along the couloir is on scree. The width of the couloir is 2–3 m, the steepness is 30–35°. After 10 m, the couloir abuts against steep rocks.

Koshak-Su, from the south, 4125.9 m. 153, p/p No. 352 dated 25/4–727

Location of the summit

• The summit "Koshak-Su" 4125.9 m is located in the left half of the "Kainды" ridge, stretching in the latitudinal direction parallel to the Fergana ridge. It is the highest point of this ridge (Fig. 1). To the west of the summit, a relatively even long ridge descends, sharply breaking off to the Kara-kol river, with the Ayry-tash pass (3200 m). To the east, there are two lower peaks. They are followed by a long even ridge, which again gains height in the upper reaches of the Kara-kol river. Here is located the summit "Shagaa" (3900 m). Behind it, to the east, there are two more peaks interesting for climbers – peaks 4125 and 4075. These peaks have hanging and regenerated glaciers from the north. Peak 4075 sharply breaks off into the gorge of the Kara-Ungur river. At the point of the break, there are many short and beautiful sairs, overgrown at the bottom with Tien Shan spruce, and filled with ice and snow in the upper part. Adjacent to this peak is a horseshoe-shaped ridge, turning into the gentle Isfan-Jayloo ridge. The "Kainды" ridge is formed by dense limestone and partially by schist. The northern slopes break off with a smooth wall, the southern slopes are more destroyed and abound with couloirs and scree. The summit is the farthest along the route and is a jandarm deviating from the main ridge. The cairn is located on the rocky site of the jandarm and is visible from afar. At the summit, a note was taken from the group of Ovchinnikov, who made the ascent along the northern ridge of category 3B.

Access routes

The starting point for the approach to the "Kashak-Su" summit area is the Kara-Kul settlement, located on the Frunze-Osh highway (Kyrg. SSR). From the settlement, a dirt road runs past the gravel plant along the Kara-kol river to Chon-Tash (Big stones). The distance from the settlement to the stones is 4 km.

№ 352 dated April 25, 1972

Location of the summit

The summit "Kashak-su" 4125.9 m is located in the left half of the "Kaindy" ridge, which stretches in the latitudinal direction parallel to the Fergana ridge (Fig. 1). It is the highest point of this ridge. To the west from the summit, a relatively even long ridge descends, sharply dropping to the Kara-kol river, with the Ayry-tash pass (3200 m). To the east, there are two lower summits. They are followed by a long even ridge, which again gains height in the upper reaches of the Kara-kol river. Here is located the summit "Shagal-too" (3900 m). Further to the east, there are two more summits interesting for climbers: peaks 4125 and 4075 m. These summits have hanging and regenerated glaciers from the north. Peak 4075 m sharply drops into the Kara-Ungur river gorge. At the point of the drop, there are many short and beautiful sairs, overgrown with Tien Shan spruce at the bottom, and filled with ice and snow in the upper part. Adjacent to this summit is a horseshoe-shaped ridge, turning into the gentle Isfan-Jailoo ridge. The "Kaindy" ridge is formed by dense limestone and partially by schist. The northern slopes drop off with a smooth wall, while the southern slopes are more destroyed and abound with couloirs and scree. The summit is the longest gendarme extending from the main ridge. The cairn is located on a rocky site of the gendarme and is visible from afar. At the summit, a note was found from the Ovchinnikov group, who made the ascent via the northern ridge, category 3B. Fig. 1.

Access routes

Report

On the First Ascent to the Summit of Uch-Zeit (4905 m)

via the North-Eastern Wall, Category 4A

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing Area: Tian Shan, southern part of the Fergana Ridge
2. Name of the Peak: Uch-Zeit (4905 m, N 40°42.434′, E 74°21.235′ (WGS 84))
3. Route Name: via the North-Eastern Wall
4. Complexity Category: proposed 4A
5. Route Type: ice
6. Route Elevation Gain: 550 m (according to GPS readings). Route Length: 960 m. Average Steepness: 35°. 7 ice pitches up to 65°, Al2.

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit of Khaokan North (4848 m)

via the eastern ridge, category 1B

1. ASCENT DETAILS

1. Ascent area: Tian Shan, southern part of the Fergana Ridge
2. Summit name: Khaokan North (4848 m, N 40°32.864′, E 74°37.445′ (WGS 84))
3. Route name: via the eastern ridge
4. Category of difficulty: proposed 1B–2A
5. Route type: snow-ice
6. Elevation gain: 640 m (according to GPS). Route length: 1700 m. Average slope: 21°.

Location of the summit. The summit is located in the northeastern part of the Baubashata ridge, which is situated at the northwestern end of the Fergana ridge, and has an elevation of 3700 m (Fig. 1). The nearest settlement is the Toktogul hydroelectric power plant builders' settlement. Kara-Kul is located on the Frunze-Osh highway, 220 km from Osh (bus service). First ascent was made on October 6-8, 1972, by a group of climbers from Kara-Kul, consisting of:

• Morozov I.V. (leader),
• Romantsova S.Ya.,
• Telbuh P.S.,
• Voloshin A.A. Approach. From Kara-Kul settlement, drive along the road to the Kaindy river gorge for 45 minutes (17 km). Then:
• Follow the trail along the river.
• Cross to the left bank (here and further, orographically) and ascend to the Birch grove.

25716.1

Description of the ascent route to peak 4710 via the north face (Peak named after I. Solodovnikov)

Alyskuz From the base camp on the green meadow, after crossing the Sary-Kaynau river, we move along the left lateral moraine of the Zapadny Bayankol glacier to the west. After about 4.5–5 hours, at the point where the medial moraine meets the left lateral moraine, we turn in a northwest direction and, rounding three spurs of peak 4505 (southern ones), we reach the col between peaks 4505 m and 4710 m. After ascending to the col, we set up a temporary camp.