Up the icy edge of the couloir 60–70 m to the entrance to the lower edge of the inclined ice shelf running across the wall. On crampons straight up (10 m). Further exit to rocks with ice crust. The path along complex rocks (35 m) left-up (piton, wedges) to a shelf convenient for belay and changing the leader. Then 20 meters up snow and ice to the base of the chimney. The steep chimney has walls filled with ice at the bottom. 20 meters of complex Climbing leads to the expansion of the chimney under the overhanging five-meter icicles. From this place to the left along the inclined fragile rock shelf 40 m to the exit to the eastern slope of the summit. Here the whole group can gather. Further up 40 m along medium and complex rocks to the Eastern summit. The cairn is located on the Central summit. The path from the Eastern to the Central summit runs along the ridge connecting them and does not present any technical difficulty. From the bivouac on the shoulder to the summit — 9–10 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the expansion of the chimney under the icicles. Further down — 3 ropes belaying down to the intersection of the main couloir. From the left edge of the couloir — one rope belaying down to the base of the wall. Further — worse, descent along the ascent route. From the summit: 5–6 hours. A variant of descent from the shelf under the summit straight down is possible if there are 80 m ropes. Descent from the shoulder and return to the assault camp takes 5–6 hours.

N

Alpinist camp "Alay" 1983. Class of technical ascents.

Report

on the ascent to the summit 5090 m (peak Admiralteets) via the North-Eastern buttress of the Eastern ridge (first ascent). Team of MGS DSO "Zenit". Moscow city council DSO "Zenit": Moscow A-40, p.o. box 545, phone 214–20–65 Team leader: Makhovetskiy Alexander Borisovich. Address: 105122, Moscow, Nikitinskaya st., house 14, building 1, apt. 69. Phone: 164–21–08 Team coach: Kozlov Yuriy Evgenievich. Address: 125414, Moscow, Petrozavodskaya st., house 24, building 2, apt. 115. Phone: 453–96–14 Heights in the report were determined as follows:

• Peak heights - according to the map.
• Heights on the Ak-Su glacier - using an altimeter.

Ascent Log

1. Class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge
3. Ascent object — Peak "5090" (Admiralteets) via NE wall, V grade
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 790 m, route length — 976 m, including U–UІ — 367 m UІ — 65 m Average steepness of the route — 55°. Average steepness of the main section of the route (4500–4990) — 59°.
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Record

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Aksu valley.
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Admiralteets, 5090 m, via NE buttress of E ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 5B (assumed).
5. Route characteristics — combined (rock and ice). Height difference — 650 m. Length — 870 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 280 m. 6th difficulty category — 85 m.

I. Technical class. 2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak "5090" (Adimireteev) via the North-Eastern buttress of the Eastern ridge. 4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent ¹). 5. Elevation gain — 790 m, length — 976 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 361 m, including 65 m of 6 category. Average steepness of the route — 55°. Average steepness of the main section of the route (4500–4990) — 59. 6. Pitons driven ²): rock 89 16 chocks 36 3 ice 34 0

Ascent Report

Irkutsk Team Ascent of Admiralteets peak 5090 m via North Face. August 9, 2012 Approximate difficulty category: 5B

Irkutsk, 2012

Ascent Details

1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley. Section number according to the classification table: 5.4.2.
2. Peak Admiralteets 5090 m (peak coordinates: 39°34′16.68″ N, 70°02′17.18″ E), via North Face

PASSPORT

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge.
3. Peak "Admiralteets" (5090) via the "pillar".
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent, combined.
5. Total elevation gain of the route — 1500 m. Elevation gain of the "pillar" — 700 m. Elevation gain of the main part of the "pillar" — 560 m. Total route length — 2840 m. Length of the "pillar" — 920 m. Length of the main part of the "pillar" — 660 m. Average steepness of the "pillar" — 70°. Average steepness of the main part of the "pillar" — 77°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 640 m.
6. Number of pitons used: | Ice | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :---: |

Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Suu valley.
3. Peak, route: peak Admiralteets 5090 m via "Bashkirov's Pillar" route, 6A category.
4. Elevation gain:
   • "Pillar" elevation gain – 740 m
   • Main part of the "Pillar" elevation gain – 560 m
   • Total route length – 2860 m
   • "Pillar" length – 920 m
   • Main part of the "Pillar" length – 675 m

PASSPORT

1. Technical category
2. Ak-su gorge
3. Peak Admiralteets, via the pillar, Bashkirov route, 6A, 2nd ascent.
4. Elevation gain 850 m, length 1230 m, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 510 m, 5th cat. diff. — 340 m. Average steepness of the route 88°
5. Pitons driven: rock — 226/4 bolt — 14/207, 27?