Solnechnaya (4400 m­­²) from Kisementy Glacier, 1B category of complexity

August 5, 1969 V. Prokopenko N. Ivanov R. Dorofeev N. Obut R. Starikov A. Shebat The starting point of the route is the assault camp on the Kisementy Glacier. Solnechnaya Peak is located on the ridge leading to Tajdi-Tash Peak. The main part of the route follows this ridge. The ascent to the ridge is via a talus slope composed of large rocks.

From the Purowekoro glacier, category 2B (Poland) July 18, 1969 Todeush Piotrovsky Knishtov Tsolevsky From the Purowekoro glacier, an unfinished-downward couloir with a steepness of up to 45° leads to the saddle between the peaks Yar-Tash and Sopka Lestnitsa. Loose 50-degree slope and rocks on the left part of the couloir. From the saddle, a rocky ridge directly through several small vertical ascents about 300 m leads to a large gendarme. Bypass it via a steep rock slab (up to 50°). Then exit to the ridge. From here, on a snowy ridge with rock outcrops (100 m), there is an exit to the summit. Descent to the saddle between the peaks and the pinnacle on snow, and further safe descent to the glacier on snow.

(4900 m) via the Eastern ridge Grade III, Category III July 25, 1969 V.P.B. Ryadov The Eastern ridge of the summit descends practically to the assault camp on the Kshemyi Glacier and forms the Kshemyi spur and the Purovsky Pass. From the assault camp, fire at the lower part of the Eastern ridge and ascend to the upper cirque of the glacier (2 hours 30 minutes). The ascent to the ridge is via a snowy slope, followed by moderately difficult rock climbing (40 m). During the ascent, orient towards the rock ledges located at the beginning of the ridge ascent to the upper slopes. Tayki-Tayki. Continue along the rocky ridge with moderate difficulty to the base of the gendarme. The time from the assault camp to the gendarme is 5 hours. Bypassing the gendarme is the key section of the route. The gendarme is traversed from below upwards on its right wall above the snow-ice couloir. Descending into the couloir is not advisable due to rockfall and avalanche danger. Bypassing the gendarme includes the following sections:

• Descend via rock ledges to the right and downwards;

2

The Table (4500 m) with an inclination of 25° on the western slope.

54

August 12, 1969 3.0. Panov's group

© A. Lorofeev

Ascent from the Purovsky glacier along the scree and talus located on the western slope of the peak to the entrance to the snow-ice couloir.

• The couloir is crossed in its lower part (highly hazardous, grade 3–4 boundary).
• Then ascend up the slopes (grade I rope).
• Then move up and to the right along the slabs and loose scree to the upper part of the wide inclined snow-ice plateau (pitons used for belay). Then traverse left — up along the ledges and the upper part of the couloir, which is to be crossed lower down. Ascend to the right along an internal corner and a crack onto a ledge, then along loose rocks and a crevice — exit under a rock beam onto a snowy plateau. After bypassing the rock beam on the left along an inclined ledge — exit onto the pre-summit ridge. Then along steep scree — exit onto the summit. Descent follows the ascent route. Ascending along the ridge via the couloir is hazardous due to rockfall.

Стол (4500 m) along the Kinomu slope 35° cat. tr. August 22, 1969 G. S. Starikov The summit of Стол is located on the southwestern slope of the Kov-Bel ridge and is connected by a pass to Таджи-Таш. The beginning of the route passes along the orographic left side of the snow-ice couloir descending along the Kinomu slope of the summit. The first two ropes pass through heavily destroyed rocks located away from the couloir. Then the rocks become monolithic, but with good holds and footholds, the steepness is 50–60°. After 200 m, by traversing to the right, we enter the couloir running parallel to the main one. In the middle of summer, most of the couloir is snowy, and only in the last few meters - ice. The couloir is 70 m, then exit to the right onto rocks. 30 m up a simple slab, then traverse left to exit under our spot with a cork. After the chimney, an inclined shelf leads to a platform under a 30-meter rock "mirror":

• Straight from the platform, 15 m up (steep), then traverse left.

ROUTE TO PEAK "MLADSHIY" VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE (CATEGORY 5A DIFFICULTY) The first ascent of this peak was made on July 25-26, 1969, by a group of climbers from the Arzamas-16 gathering, consisting of:

1. ZHELONKIN E. F.
2. PAVLOVSKY E. S.
3. RUDNEV V. S.
4. SOFRONOV I. D. (leader) Peak "Mladshiy" is located at the beginning of the southern spur of the Turkestan Range, leading to the "Obryv" peak. The nodal peak connecting this spur to the Turkestan Range is a higher unnamed peak situated close to "Mladshiy" and linked by a relatively high and short saddle (approximately 0.5 km). The proximity of "Mladshiy" to the higher unnamed nodal peak led the first ascensionists to suggest the name "Mladshiy" for their ascent target. Both peaks are visible from the "Matccha" pass and enclose the upper valley of the Zeravshan Glacier (see Fig. 1 and Fig. 2). To the southeast, towards the head of the Zeravshan Glacier, a short ridge descends from the summit tower of "Mladshiy," along which the ascent was made. The route along this ridge was purely rock climbing, even in the snowy conditions of 1969. The average steepness of the route is 60°.

• The lower half of the southeast ridge is composed of grey-yellow rocks.

5. A

August 7–10, 1969. L.A. Belnev, L.N. Pimakova, D.M. Molorodov, A.S. Mardovov The route begins with the "4600" pass, which connects the Пуровского (Purovsky) and Толстого (Tolstoy) glaciers. The path across the "4600" pass from the assault camp in the upper reaches of the Пуровского glacier goes:

• along the main part of the glacier,
• then along its left tributary. The first stage of the icefall. The path from the assault camp on the Кисоши (Kisoshi) glacier to the overnight stay on the left tributary of the Пуровского glacier takes 9 hours. Ascent to the "4600" pass

Тща­тель­ной причёс­кой отра­бот­кой и на коп­ках. От места под­ход­ки на пере­вале 2 ч 30 мин. The ice ridge turns into a rocky ridge. Here, difficult climbing on rocks (40°), covered with thick flow ice. Insurance through pitons. There are loose rocks. After 40 m exit to the right to a site protected from rockfall from above. Further movement upwards:

• first along stratified rocks,
• then on ice,
• then along 25-meter rocks (60°), which is a continuation of the ridge. At the exit from the rocks, there is a convenient site for organizing insurance, above -

The edge formation rests against a 40° snow-ice slope. After 8–10 m there is a large rock, where it is convenient to organize an insurance and hang a rope. Up to this point, starting from the triangular wall, it goes without a backpack. After a large rock, the ascent takes 10–15 minutes and follows a snow-ice slope with rocky inclusions to a gentle part of the edge. From here, along the ascending edge, which breaks off steeply to the north for about 200 m, it leads to a snowy shoulder under the summit. From it, along the snow-ice slope from the western side, there is an ascent to the summit of the peak. From under the triangular wall - 5 hours. The descent from the summit to the pass follows the ascent route, with the organization of 5 forty-meter "rappels" and takes 7 hours.