25716.1
Description of the ascent route to peak 4710 via the north face (Peak named after I. Solodovnikov)
Alyskuz
From the base camp on the green meadow, after crossing the Sary-Kaynau river, we move along the left lateral moraine of the Zapadny Bayankol glacier to the west. After about 4.5–5 hours, at the point where the medial moraine meets the left lateral moraine, we turn in a northwest direction and, rounding three spurs of peak 4505 (southern ones), we reach the col between peaks 4505 m and 4710 m. After ascending to the col, we set up a temporary camp.
The next day at 5:00, without backpacks, taking only the necessary equipment and distributing food among our pockets, we begin the ascent. Immediately, a difficult and dangerous descent begins down a steep snowy slope to the north onto the glacier. This section is 150 meters long, with a steepness of 45–50° and has three wide bergschrunds at its base. Early in the morning, this section is relatively easy to traverse as the bridge and snow bridges across the crevasses can hold an alpinist's weight. Throughout this section, careful protection via ice axe is necessary. Crossing the glacier (moving towards the base of the wall) must be done in teams, exercising great caution while overcoming open and hidden crevasses. At the start of the ascent up the wall, it's necessary to stick to the left-hand side as it is less prone to avalanches and easier. The entire wall, about one kilometer long, has four ice pitches of 30 meters each, where at least 3 ice screws need to be hammered in. Before reaching the summit, the path is obstructed by a wide crevasse, which is bypassed on the left-hand side. The overall steepness of the wall is 40–45°, and at times reaches 50–53° (on the ice pitches). The entire wall from the base to the summit is traversed in crampons with protection via ice axe and ice screws, of which 12 were used on this route. The summit was reached by the group at 14:00. The descent from the summit is along the southeast ridge. The rocks are of medium difficulty and occasionally easy. The return to the temporary camp took 1 hour 20 minutes. Quickly dismantling the temporary camp, the group reached the base camp on the glacier on the same day. The ascent to the described peak via the north face will take 2 days from the base camp. The route is similar in nature to the ascent to peak "Molodezhnaya" via the north face but is almost twice as long.
The first ascent of the described peak was made by a group of climbers from the Kazakh Republican Alpine Club consisting of:
- Mansurov Babir — leader
- Boris Krasilnikov
- Boris Kuklichev
- Anatoly Barzut
- Vladimir Gonialin August 23, 1957
During the ascent, the group used the following climbing equipment:
- main ropes — 2 pieces
- ice axes — 5 pieces
- crampons — 5 pairs
- ice screws — 6 pieces
- hammers — 2 pieces
- chest harnesses — 5 pieces
The difficulty of this peak is assessed by us as category 3B.
Mansurov
True to the original — Musikiy
From left to right:
- Peak "4710 m".
- North peak "4530 m".
- Peak "5070 m" from the east.