Ushba (USHA)

1. By the right part of SW face, A. Kustovsky, 1963, 6A
2. By SW edge, Yu. Grigorenko — Prigoda, 1972, 6A
3. By the left part of SW face, M. Zholobov, 1990, 6A
4. By the left part of SW face, L. Myshlyaev, 1960, 6A
5. Through the center of SW face, N. Golubev, 1981, 5B
6. Through the center of SW face, variant of M. Voloshanovsky, 2010
7. Through the center of SW face, V. Monogarov, 1965, 5B
8. Team's route on SW face, variant of A. Moshnikov, 1986
9. By SW face, E. Titkin, 1984, 5B

MINISTRY OF SPORTS, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Championship of Russia

2011 Class of high-altitude and technical ascents

Report

Of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory Peak Ushba South 4710 m via south-west face, 2nd passage of the variant Moshnikov 1986. Suggested:

PASSPORT

1. Class — ice and snow
2. Central Caucasus, Ushbinsky spur of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Ushba South peak (4710 m) via the icefalls of the Northwest, Northwestern wall.
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation difference: 2210 m, length 3630 m, length including traverses — 3800 m. Length of sections 5–6 — 2300 m. Average steepness of main sections 40° (2500 m – 4710 m). Of these, 6 — 140 m (90°, 3030–3130); (90°, 3565–3605 m).
6. Number of pitons driven — 233: | Rock | Bolts | Chocks | Ice screws | | :--: | :-----: | :--: | :-----: | | 39/0 | 0/0 | 4/0 | 190/0 |

Participants of Burkhanov

Participants:

1. BERDOTIN GENNADIY FEDOROVICH — CMS, Chelyabinsk, TRUD Sports Society (leader)
2. AKIMOV NIKOLAY ALEKSANDROVICH — 1st sports category, INSTRUCTOR, Chelyabinsk, TRUD Sports Society

Coach:

LEVIN MIKHAIL SEMENOVICH — MS, SENIOR INSTRUCTOR Departure on the route — August 11, 1978, Return — August 15, 1978

1. Climbing category Mechanical (92)
2. Climbing area Central Caucasus
3. Climbing route with indication Ushba South peak and their heights via the western wall 4710 m.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1690 m (without icefall), average steepness 67°, route length 1931 m (without icefall), length of difficult sections more than 300 m.
5. Pitons hammered in: rock 277, ice 51, bolt 24
6. Number of climbing hours 74.5 h
7. Number of nights and their characteristics: 8 of them: normal in a tent 2, sitting in a suspended tent 5, sleepless in hammocks 1

Passport

I. Climbing Category 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak YUZHNAYA USHBA via the West Face, Slesov's route 4. Category 5B, second ascent 5. Elevation gain: 1770 m, route length – 2585 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 920 m, average steepness of main sections – 65° 6. Pitons driven: rock, bolt, nut, ice 140, 0, 97, 20

Report

on the first ascent of the South Ushba (4710 m) west wall by the "Digoriya" alpine camp team consisting of:

• 1. Slesov I.V. — team captain, Master of Sports of the USSR
• 2. Shevandrin N.I. — deputy captain, Candidate for Master of Sports
• 3. Dzhioev G.L. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• 4. Mikhalev V.E. — Candidate for Master of Sports Rostov-on-Don 1977

I. Climbing category — technically challenging. 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus. 3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights — Ushba, South Peak, 4710 m via the East Face. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1700 m, including the most difficult part — 850 m, average steepness of the wall section of the route — 75°, length of the difficult section — 1015 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 3II, ice — 5, bolt — 2. 6. Number of climbing hours (on ascent) — 110.40.

I. Technical class 2. Central Caucasus 3. Ushba South peak via East face (Khatskevich route) 4. Proposed - 6B cat. diff., second ascent 5. Height difference - 1260 m, including wall section - 1075 m. Route length - 1600 m, wall section - 1275 m. Average steepness of main wall section - 75° (3550–4250 m) of which 6B cat. diff. -

• 85° (3615–3625 m)
• 90° (3625–3635 m)
• 95° (3705–3725 m)

I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS. 3. Peak — SOUTH USHBA — 4710 m. First ascent route along the edge of the Western wall through the "pillar". 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1460 m (3250 — 4710). Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1270 m, including 6th category — 735 m. Average steepness: route — 68–70°, wall section ("pillar", grey wall, canopy) — 90°. Total 850 m. 6. Driven pitons and used stoppers