MINISTRY OF SPORTS, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY
KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM
Championship of Russia
2011
Class of high-altitude and technical ascents
Report
Of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory
Peak Ushba South 4710 m via south-west face, 2nd passage of the variant Moshnikov 1986.
Suggested:
- 6B cat. diff.
- 6B for the group
- winter passage
Krasnoyarsk 2011
Passport of the ascent
- Region — Caucasus, from Chipperaza pass to Gumachi peak, 2.4.
- Peak — Ushba (S), 4710 m via south-west face, E. Titkin 1984, variant Moshnikov 1986.
- Suggested — 6A cat. diff. (ED, VI+, 5c, A3), 2nd passage. In winter 6B for the group
- Character of the route — combined.
- Characteristics of the route:
height difference of the wall part — 1170 m, total route — 1410 m, route length — 2200 m, length of sections with 6 cat. diff. — 580 m, 5 cat. diff. — 410 m, average steepness of the wall part of the route — 70°, main bastion — 84°
- Left on the route: pitons — 1, including bolt pitons — 1; " закладок" — 0.
Used pitons on the route: stationary bolt pitons — 1 (on the belay station); used total of artificial climbing aids (ITC) about — 400.
- Number of climbing hours — 72, days — 7.
- Team leader — Khvostenko Oleg Valerievich, Master of Sports
Team members:
- Prokofiev Denis Evgenievich, Master of Sports
- Efremov Ilya Nikolaevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Sikilinda Alexey Nikolaevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Team coaches: Zakharov Nikolay Nikolaevich, International Master of Sports, Honored Coach of Russia
Balezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports
- Date of departure:
on the route — February 4, 2011 at 6:00, on the summit — February 10, 2011 at 16:00, return to the base camp on the glacier — February 11, 2011 at 21:00.
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Organization: Ministry of Sports, Tourism and Youth Policy of Krasnoyarsk Territory, 2011
Tactical actions of the team
When choosing the route, we did not have information about the passage of the section of the south-west face of Ushba between the routes of Kustovsky 6A 1963 and Monogarova 5B 1960. Therefore, we were guided only by our own experience. From below, the line looks very logical, and the relief can be observed through binoculars along the entire route. The wall consists of three rock belts and a summit tower, separated by large ledges convenient for overnight stays. The difficulty of the route increases evenly from the first rock belt to the third, which is a granite triangle 400 m high with an average slope of 80°. The route line passes through the center of this triangle, hereinafter referred to as the main bastion.
The logic of the route is further confirmed by the fact that we followed the exact same line as the team of Leningrad climbers led by A. Moshnikov in 1986. The first ascent of the bastion was made by the team of E. Titkin in 1984. They chose a different variant for passing the first and second rock belts, and on the main bastion, they deviated to the right, shortening the difficult section (see general photo).
This variant of the passage was also considered by us as an alternative when choosing the route line, as well as during the ascent. In our opinion:
- the variants of Titkin and Moshnikov for passing the first rock belt are equivalent;
- the second rock belt was passed by Titkin's team through slightly more difficult terrain;
- on the main bastion, Moshnikov's variant is more difficult.
Overall, it can be said that the 5B category of difficulty for Titkin's route is underestimated, as it corresponds to 6A, and in our opinion, it is not weaker than Kustovsky's route.
It is also worth noting that Moshnikov's variant can be classified as an independent route, as the overlap with Titkin's route is no more than 3 ropes.
From a psychological point of view, for our team, this ascent was a first ascent, as we had no prior information about the route and climbed, guided only by our own observations and tactical plan. During the ascent, we encountered three rock pitons:
- one on the first rock belt;
- two at the beginning of the main bastion,
which we did not use due to their unsuitability. This indicates the high level of the preceding teams.
Since there are few ledges suitable for organizing comfortable overnight stays for a large team on the wall (only three), we employed a capsule style, which is the most suitable for complex winter ascents. Overnight stays were organized on large flat ledges using snow hammocks.
The following equipment was used:
- Wall-mounted frameless tent
- Two-person sleeping bags with synthetic insulation
- 250 m of rope for rappelling
- One dynamic rope 60 m
This allowed us to pass the main bastion without an overnight stay on the wall.
A standard set of rock climbing equipment was used: camalots, закладки, anchor pitons, rock friends.
For passing ice sections:
- ice screws
- ice tools
In the upper part of the second rock belt, we hammered a bolt piton spit to organize a more reliable belay station. All other stations and belay points were organized on natural terrain.
All equipment, as well as trash, was removed from the route and lowered down.
Throughout the entire route, the leader was constantly changing. The change of leader also occurred in the middle of the day. This allowed us to increase the efficiency of progress.
It can be said that a team size of 4 people is optimal for long wall ascents in winter conditions. It allows:
- Maintaining a high pace of progress
- Ensuring a constant change of leaders
- Providing rest for leaders
The starting weight of the backpacks was approximately 20 kg per person. Food and gas were taken for 10 hours.
The descent was made via the classic route of Dzaparidze 5A through the ice tie-in. Throughout the descent:
- stations were strengthened with anchor pitons when necessary
- rappelling loops were replaced
- in the lower part of the descent couloir, we did not climb up to Mazer's notch and did not cross to the eastern side, as indicated in the description
- we rappelled straight down on our stations, 5 ropes vertically to the glacier
The weather during the ascent was very unstable. At the beginning of the ascent, there were snowfalls, but it was not very cold and relatively calm. The main bastion was passed in sunny but frosty weather, with strong gusty winds, which was much worse than snowfalls. On the day of the summit push, the weather deteriorated sharply:
- The wind reached hurricane force
- There were snow charges
- Visibility was absent, which greatly complicated the ascent
In the summer, the route can be passed in a lightweight style by a small group in 3-4 days. Throughout the route, there are ledges suitable for overnight stays for two people. The route is well-suited for free climbing. The difficulty of the sections is up to 7A fr. The main problem is passing the key rope section through the cornice (section 20 on the diagram) in free climbing.
In winter:
- Sections up to 4th category of difficulty were passed in free climbing
- Sections of 5th category — partially in free climbing, partially using artificial climbing aids (ITC)
- Sections of 6B — were passed using ITC
From the middle mark of the Ushba glacier, we ascended through the left edge of the icefall between Ushba and Mazer. From the icefall, we proceeded about 400 m. The start of the route is through the third couloir from the icefall.
Description of the route by sections
R0–R1. Snowy couloir 150 m. High risk of avalanche! R1–R2. First, along the internal angle 15 m, then a pendulum to the left and along the sloping slabs, exit to a sloping snow-covered ledge. Along the ledge to the left upwards 40 m.
2–3. Continuation of the ledge and further along the "ram's foreheads" upwards until the slope eases 50 m. 3–4–5. Along snow-covered ledges and "ram's foreheads" to the right upwards 90 m. 5–6. Along a snow-covered ledge to the left upwards, exit to a rock ridge, along the rock ridge and slabs to the right upwards under the base of the rusty wall 60 m.
6–7. Traverse under the rusty rocks (loose rock!) to the right 10 m. Further along the ice couloir with an exit to broken rocks until the start of a large snow-covered ledge 50 m.
7–8. Along the snowy slope until the start of the 2nd rock belt 120 m. Here, Camp 1 was organized.
8–9. System of frozen walls and ledges 50 m. 9–10–11. Traverse to the right along snow-covered frozen ledges 10 m. Further along the relief, composed of frozen rock blocks, upwards until the bend 90 m.
- Unreliable belay!
- Station on a bolt.
11–12. Exit to a rock ledge-shoulder. Along the ledge to the right upwards and further along the sloping slabs 40 m. 12–13. Along the slabs upwards 20 m, wall of frozen blocks with an exit to a ledge 30 m.
13–14. Wall with unreliable relief (loose blocks) 30 m until the exit to the second snow-covered ledge.
14–15. Along the snowy slope and "ram's foreheads" under the start of the main bastion 160 m. Here, Camp 2 was organized.
15–16. To the right upwards along the snowy couloir 20 m, further to the left upwards along the wall 30 m to the rock серп at the base of the bastion.
16–17. Along the wall, we enter the серп, which is an internal angle turning into a chimney. To the right upwards 20 m.
17–19. Upwards along the clearly defined relief in the direction of the gray fault in the middle of the wall 90 m.
19–20. Along the gray fault upwards in the direction of the cornice, through the cornice in the лоб (outcrop 1 m) 45 m. Loose blocks! Exit to a small ledge
20–22. Upwards along the system of internal angles of walls and ledges to the start of the gray wall with a slit 80. 22–23. Along the slit of the gray wall upwards in the direction of the chimney 60 m.
23–24. Approach under the chimney through the cornice (outcrop 0.5 m), further along the chimney and the system of broken walls and stony ledges — exit to a ledge at the base of the Red angle 45 m.
Many loose stones!
Camp 3 was organized to the right behind the angle.
24–25. Along the angle behind the bend of the wall 20 m. 25–26. Along the snowy slope and further along the ridge under the base of the summit tower 150 m. 26–27. Upwards along the wall and further to the left along the rock ledge to the base of the internal angle 30 m. 27–28. Along the internal angle to the left upwards 50 m. 28–29. Along the ice couloir and further along simple rocks, exit to the pre-summit slope. 29–30. Along the snowy slope, then along the ridge to the summit 500 m.
Descent via the route 5A through the ice tie-in in the direction of Mazer's notch. At the moment of our ascent, the summit of Ushba (South) was a large ice cap, and digging through it to find a note, in the weather conditions we found ourselves in on the summit, was practically impossible.
The wind and frost were such that:
- within a few minutes of being on the summit, we froze our faces,
- the camera (stored under clothing next to the body) froze after 4 shots, so we were unable to take a photo with Ushba (N) in the background, as there was no visibility at the time of the shot.
- another camera and video camera froze and did not work, even when stored under clothing.
Therefore, the note from the summit is missing.