PASSPORT 221

1. Rock climbing category
2. Central Caucasus. Uzibinskaya group of peaks area.
3. Chaty-Tau peak 4363 m via the right edge of the North wall triangle (route via Garfa)
4. Category 5B difficulty
5. Elevation gain: 700 m, length 1430 m. Length of sections of category 5B: 560 m. Length of sections of category 6: 20 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 60°
6. Pitons driven:

• rock: 14

9.25

Climbing Marieta's Opirogama and etc. routes via tuporame cuscefitkh.

Ascent of Chatyn-Tau via the Northern wall (Peruvian style).

Category of difficulty 5B

From "Shkelda" alpine camp the group reaches Shkelda overnight stay via the usual route. Through Loznыy Chatyn pass the group descends to the Chalaat glacier under the northern wall of Chatyn-Tau. Here they spend the night. Via large avalanche cones the group ascends through a subglacial crevice to the first rocky outcrop. The rocks are steep, smooth, and have the appearance of a narrow and high isosceles triangle. The apex of this triangle abuts the overhang of a black gendarme. To the right of the triangle is a large

¹

2. Steep snowy slope. Descent with alternating belay
3. Snow ridge. Cornices possible from the north.
4. Easy destroyed rocks. CHATYN-TAU — Category 3A. Height 4368 m. The summit of Chatyn-Tau is located in the Uzhba group area and is directly adjacent to the Uzhba Plateau. To the north of the summit is the peak Shchurovskogo, to the east is the Dolla-Kora ridge, and to the southwest are the summits:

• Malaya Uzhba
• Severная Uzhba (North Uzhba)

North Caucasus Regional

SEARCH AND RESCUE TEAM OF EMERCOM OF RUSSIA

Report

On the first ascent of the right part of the northern slope of the Chatkara peak 3898 m.

Presumably 2B category of difficulty. Leader: Donskov Andrey Mikhailovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich

Zheleznovodsk

2016 Addresses: 357433, Stavropol Krai, Zheleznovodsk, pos. Inozemtsevo, ul. Promyshlennaya,

From the Baksan valley through the Donguz-Orun pass we get into the Nakra valley. Along the trail, going along the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra river, we reach the confluence of the Kvish river and the Nakra river. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish river and start the ascent along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish river to the left lateral moraine. There are sites for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terokol to these sites takes about 10 hours. From the moraine, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel) under the slopes of p. Leyrag, we make our way to the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the time of year. In August, there is steep broken ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, keeping to the rocks. It is possible to ascend via the rocks, which are of medium difficulty, with piton belays. To the northeast of the Kvish pass is p. Ledesh, and directly to the south is p. Leyrag.

From the Baksan valley, through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, which follows the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish River and begin ascending along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish River to the left lateral moraine. There are areas for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes around 10 hours. From the moraine, staying on the right side (as we move forward), under the slopes of v. Leyrag, we pass onto the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the season. In August, there is steep, razored ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, sticking to the rocks. A rock ascent is possible. The rocks are of medium

325. Tsal­g­myl via North­west ridge (combined route, V. Sigalov, cat.4A, fig. 32, 43). From Nak­ra vil­lage cross Nak­ra river and as­cend the valley along the trail on the right bank. Before the third stream com­ing down from the west­ern slopes of Tsal­g­myl turn right and con­tinue through the for­est, then along the grassy slope of the North­west ridge of Tsal­g­myl. Leave the ridge on the left onto the right-lateral mo­raine of Tsal­g­myl glacier and con­tinue up­wards. From the end of the mo­raine reach the glacier. Traverse the glacier to the left avoid­ing hang­ing seracs, then turn right and as­cend a steep glacier to the up­per plateau above the seracs. From the plateau as­cend snowy slopes to reach the plat­forms on the North­west ridge of Tsal­g­myl. Start­ing bi­vak. From Nak­ra vil­lage 6–7 hrs. From the plat­forms as­cend along the icy-snowy North­west ridge (cornices) to the black rocks. Pass the rocks in a corner or traverse them on the left. Fur­ther as­cend along the sharp North­west ridge, a slab, mod­er­ately dif­fi­cult heav­ily dam­aged rocks with snowy con­nec­tions (cornices) to a plat­form un­der the North­ern gendarme. Traverse the gendarme on the left and reach the wall of the rocky belt of the summit. As­cend dif­fi­cult icy rocks of the couloir wall at 4050 m, then a steep slab of mod­er­ate dif­fi­culty lead­ing out of the couloir on the left, then 40 m along the monolithic dif­fi­cult rocks of the wall (crux).

Description of the route to Tsalichnil peak via the Southwest ridge, category 3A. The height of the peak is 3992 m.

From the Baksan valley through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, running along the left (orographic) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross the bridge over the Kvish River and start ascending along the left (orographic) bank of the Kvish to the left lateral moraine. In the upper part of the moraine, there are areas for overnight stays. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes about 10 hours. From the moraine, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel), under the slopes of Leyrag peak, we make our way to the plateau below the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging,

Fig. 42.

315. Khsvai — Dolra (combined route, V. Yakubovich, 4A cat. diff., fig. 32, 42). From the summit Khsvai Zapadnaya (p. 312) down along the simple rocky Eastern ridge, bypassing the gendarme on the right, to a snowy saddle (cornice). From here, ascend along the simple rocks of the 80–90-meter Western ridge to the summit Khsvai Tsentralnaya. From Zapadnaya, approximately 1 hour. From Tsentralnaya, descend 120–150 m along the snowy rocky Eastern ridge to a saddle. From the saddle, ascend along the simple rocky ridge, then along narrow shelves on its right side. Further, along the dihedral corner, then along the Western ridge to the summit Khsvai Vostochnaya. From Tsentralnaya, approximately 1 hour. From Vostochnaya, descend 160–200 m down steep simple rocks with short walls of medium difficulty along the Eastern ridge to a snowy col (cornice). Along the snowy ridge of the col, approach under the wall of the gendarme "Plita". Bypass it and the next gendarme "Palechit" on the right along the slabs (gully) with an exit to a platform. Further, along simple and medium-difficulty rocks of the ridge ("live" rocks), ascend to the gendarme "Nakra". From the gendarme "Nakra", along simple and medium-difficulty rocks of the ridge, with a 30-meter rappel down the slabs to a col under the gendarme "Stolb", which is bypassed on the right along a snowy slope with a 50-meter descent. Behind it, exit to a platform on a snowy saddle. From the saddle, ascend along a simple, long, heavily destroyed, местами snowy, and rocky Western ridge to the summit Khevai Pervaya Vostochnaya. From Vostochnaya, 5–7 hours. From Pervaya Vostochnaya, descend along simple rocks, then 80 meters along smooth steep slabs, a 20-meter wall, and simple rocks to a platform on a saddle under the I gendarme of the "saw".