Climbing Report on the First Ascent

Kupol Peak (2954 m)

Via the Central Counterfort of the North Face. Route category 5B (proposed), first ascent Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1 Team leader: Klepikov A.A. Team member: Afanasyeva A.A. Trainer: Afanasyev 2007

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1.
2. Kupol Peak (2954 m), Central counterfort of the North Face.
3. Proposed category 5B — first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route height difference: 656 m

Ascent Passport

Appr. No. 13 dated April 13, 2007 6B cat. diff. In one hike 6.1.67 1. Region — Eastern Sayan Mountains, Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Berun-Khandagai valley, 6.1. 2. Peak — Dome 2955 m, via plumb lines on the North face of the East shoulder. 3. Proposed 6B cat. diff., first ascent. Route type — rock. 4. Elevation difference: total route — 664 m, wall section — 474 m; length: total route — 1051 m, wall section — 511 m; section lengths: VI cat. diff. — 326 m, V cat. diff. — 80 m; average steepness of the wall route section — 86°. 5. Pitons left: total — 39, incl. drilled — 32; used: chocks — 86/51, rock pitons — 59/40, drilled pitons — 57/49, incl. removable — 25/17; celestial pitons — 97/97, incl. under Ø 6 mm drill — 90/90; total TTP used — 230.

Passport

1. Class of first ascents.
2. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge, 6.1.
3. V. Kupol via the North face of the East shoulder, 2955 m.
4. Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. The nature of the route is rocky.
5. Height difference: total route – 554 m, wall part – 425 m; length: total route – 730 m, wall part – 461 m, overhanging part ("blade") – 141 m; length of sections: 6th category of difficulty – 207 m, 5th category of difficulty – 145 m; average steepness of the wall part of the route — 79°.
6. "Hooks" left: total – 13, including pitons – 8; used: chocks – 82/67, rock pitons – 96/56, ice screws – 4, pitons – 10/5, including removable – 2/1; total artificial aids used – 128.
7. Team's climbing hours – 49, days – 6 (1 – processing, 5 – route).
8. Overnights – 4 in hammocks.
9. Team leader: Afanasyev A.E. (MS); participant: Khandazhapov B.A. (CMS).

2010 Russian Mountaineering Championship. First Ascent Category

The summit of Kupol (2954 m) via the center of the North face of the East shoulder. Route category 6B (approx.), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1 Irkutsk Region team

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
2. Summit Kupol (2954 m), via the center of the North face of the East shoulder.
3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 850 m Route length: 1218 m Main part height difference: 680 m

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Pik Lyubvi 2121 m via waterfall ice on the right stream of the SW ridge
3. Proposed 2B category of difficulty in winter, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined. Elevation gain: 1111 m (GPS); Average slope of the entire route: 32°; Total route length: 2100 m; VI category of difficulty: 0 m; V category of difficulty: 0 m;

Ascent Certificate for Mt. Mamlyuk, 2410 m, via the Western slope, cat. 1B, diff. cat.

1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Serga cirque (Veter region), section 6.1.2. 2. Mt. Mamlyuk (2410) via the Western slope. 3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent. 4. Route type: combined. 5. Height gain 350 m, length 860 m, average slope 20°. 6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 7. 7. Team's walking time — 4 hours. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team: Afanas'eva A.A. CMS Geydarov K.G. 2nd sports class Karelov P.S. 3rd sports class Kuchumov S.N. novice Mordovin A.A. 3rd sports class Nomokonov D.V. 3rd sports class Potapov R.A. badge Rasskazov D.V. 3rd sports class Rozhin A.Yu. 2nd sports class Uvarovskiy S.V. novice Shabanov A.V. novice Afanas'ev A.E. MS

Description of the ascent route to Mt. Mamlyuk 2410 m via the Western ridge, cat. 1B diff. cat.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy, Moygoty Gorge. 3. Mt. Moygota, height 2832 m. Route via South Ridge. 4. Re-certified to category 3B difficulty. 5. Height difference: 650 m. Average steepness: 20°. Section lengths: 1st category — 200 m, 2nd category — 80 m, 3rd category — 600 m, 4th category — 80 m, 5th category — 6. Number of pitons hammered for belay: Rock — 12 pcs. 7. Number of travel hours — 8 hours 8. No overnight stays. 9. Group composition: BOGOMOLOV S.G. — CMS, FILIPPOVA T. — CMS

Ascent Report

Monakh Peak (2800 m)

Route via the South Counterfort, category 4A (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1 Team Leader: Kle­pi­kov A.A. Participants:

• Il'inskiy V.A.
• Shcherban' A.N.
• Sha­ki­rov D.I. Ascent Details

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.

Krasnoyarsk Alpinism Federation Report on the first ascent On v. Monakh 2850 m via the counterfort of the northern wall Approximately 4A category of difficulty

Krasnoyarsk, 2015. Climbing Passport

1. Type of ascent — combined
2. Region — Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.2
3. Peak — Monakh 2850 m via the counterfort of the northern wall
4. Presumed 4A first ascent

5. Route characteristics:

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Lastochka peak, 3100 m, via the South wall.
3. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 350 m, length — 535 m, average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and chock — 28 pcs.
7. Team's traveling hours — 8 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Bersenev Yu.V. 1st sports category, Antonov E.V. CMS, Gerus A.O. 3rd sports category, Nabokikh K.S. 3rd sports category.