Krasnoyarsk Alpinism Federation
Report on the first ascent
On v. Monakh 2850 m via the counterfort of the northern wall
Approximately 4A category of difficulty
Krasnoyarsk, 2015. Climbing Passport
- Type of ascent — combined
- Region — Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.2
- Peak — Monakh 2850 m via the counterfort of the northern wall
- Presumed 4A first ascent
5. Route characteristics:
- Height difference — 510 m
- Total length — 750 m
- Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 160 m, 4th category of difficulty — 60 m
- Average steepness: entire route — 70°
- Equipment used on the route:
- закладных элементов (placements) — 41
- скальных крючьев (rock pitons) — 12
- including on ИТО (artificial climbing aids) — 17
- total points — 70
- left behind — 0
- Number of climbing hours — 22
8. Date of departure and return:
- October 18, 2015, departure time — 6:50
- October 18, 2015, on the summit — 20:35
- October 19, 2015, return time — 3:20
9. Team composition:
- Kozlova A.P. 2nd sports category — team leader
- Pakrovsky A.S. 2nd sports category
- Malkova A.N. 2nd sports category
- Kravtsov A.Yu. 2nd sports category
- Organization: Krasnoyarsk City Alpinism Federation
General photo of the route
UIAA Scheme
Route Description
R0–R1 — wide, scree-covered snow slope, ending under the wall with a quadrangular rock "room". Movement is simultaneous.
R1–R2 — to the right of the black stripes, a narrow chimney with jams. Passed by climbing, partially with ИТО (artificial climbing aids) every 3–4 meters.
R2–R3 — the chimney turns into a couloir, which leads to a small saddle.
R3–R4 — further, behind the couloir, there is a small wall, partially passed with ИТО, partially with free climbing.
R4–R5 — after the ledge, a series of internal corners follows; on the red chip — a pendulum swing into the adjacent crack, or passage up the crack with ИТО.
R5–R6 Internal corner and wall, leading to a wide ledge.
R6–R7 From the ledge, a series of walls and internal corners ascends, leading to another wide ledge.
R7–R8 Ridge-ledge to the wall; it's possible to move simultaneously.
R8–R9 Short wall with a "problem" without relief, ending with a sloping ledge.
R9–R10 Along the sloping ledge, an easy ascent to the summit.
Photo 1. R1–R2
Digitized by Google Photo 2. R2–R3
Digitized by Google Photo 3. R3–R4
Wall with a red chip, crack upwards. R4
Description and Scheme of the Area
Scheme 2. Scheme of the area. Approaches.
From the hut on the lake, we ascend to the top of the old moraine, bypassing the peaks of Neftkhimik and Monakh to the right. Soon, a wide scree slope will open up. The start of the movement is along the center of the slope, keeping a straight course towards the central counterfort. A good landmark is the black stripes on the rock. At the lower part of the counterfort, there is a quadrangular rock "room". This is the start of the route.
Approach:
- From the hut on the lake — 40 minutes
- From the camp at the forest boundary — 1 hour – 1 hour 30 minutes
Logic and beauty of the route: The route is easily readable and logical. At the beginning of the route, there is a good landmark — black stripes. It's impossible to pass the start of the route incorrectly. The line of movement is limited by the walls of the chimney at the beginning and the ridge of the upper part. The route goes upwards along a logical path to the summit without zigzags, descents, or turns. This allows recommending the route not only to experienced athletes but also to groups starting to climb routes of 4th category of difficulty.
Recommendations for groups:
- On the route, it's necessary to have a reserve of expendable ropes.
- The fastest descent from p. Monakh is via the route of 2Б category of difficulty; there are rappel stations.
- Be more attentive during rappelling!
- It's advisable to plan the descent in advance.