Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Lastochka peak, 3100 m, via the South wall.
3. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 350 m, length — 535 m, average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and chock — 28 pcs.
7. Team's traveling hours — 8 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Bersenev Yu.V. 1st sports category, Antonov E.V. CMS, Gerus A.O. 3rd sports category, Nabokikh K.S. 3rd sports category.
10. Coach Afanasiev A.E. MS.
11. Approach to the route and return — May 4, 2003.

Description of the ascent route to Lastochka peak 3100 m via the South wall of 3B category of difficulty

Lastochka peak is located in the Eskadrilya — Opasnaya ridge. The approach is best made along the trail to Eho lake. Past the lake, traverse right and along the eastern slope of Eskadrilya's foot to the start of the route.

Alternative approach:

• Along the left (orographic) talus valley
• Along the walls of Opasnaya peak

Section R0–R1 50 m. 35° II. Snowy couloir. Section R1–R2 25 m. 50° III+. Inner corner. Section R2–R3 35 m. 40° II. Snowy ledge up to the right. Section R3–R4 30 m. 40° I. Traverse along the snow ledge to the left. Section R4–R5 50 m. 80° V+. Complex wall. Section R5–R6 35 m. 50° III+. Rock slab up to the left. Section R6–R7 20 m. 70° III. Inner corner. Exit to the counterfort ridge. Section R7–R8 80 m. 40° II. Snowy slope to the right. Section R8–R9 10 m. 50° III+. Wall — exit to the summit ridge. Section R9–R10 100 m. 20° II. Summit ridge.

Descent:

• To the right onto the saddle between the gendarme Iguana and Nedotroga peak
• Further to the right, southward
• One rappel and one sport descent into the couloir of Opasnaya peak.

Description of the ascent route to Lastochka peak 3100 m via the South wall of 3B category of difficulty

Section R1–R2

Sections

R4–R5, R6–R7