Petrel 2929 m, 2B, October 31, 1978. V. Monomarchuk + 5 people (height difference 630 m, steepness 40°, snow depth 5 cm, 6 h). Photo 2. The route from the Birop gorge side. Sections:

• R2–R3
• R4–R5
• R3–R4 Map of the ascent area. The route is assault (2 groups). Б. лагерь — base camp.

Brief administrative and geographical outline of the ascent area

Peak 2929 m («Petrel») is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge of the Eastern Sayan, in the valley of the Moygota River. Vegetation is typically taiga:

Irkutsk

Regional Alpine Federation

Protocol №–304 from 6.71 г. To first ascenders.

Description

Ascent to v. Dinosaur (Tunkin Alps). via the eastern ridge (EASTERN SAYAN)

Peak Monakh from the west, from the saddle between Peak Monakh and Charskie Zori Suvorkina L.D. East Sayan 6.1

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Region: East Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Barun-Khadagai valley
3. Summit: 2850 m. Peak Monakh from the west, from the saddle between Peak Monakh and Charskie Zori
4. Proposed: 2B category of difficulty
5. Route type: combined
6. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 840 m.

4344

IRKUTSK REGIONAL FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Description

Ascent to peak "Perya" via the N ridge (Tunkinskie Goltsy) Eastern Sayan Mountains 2996 m. Irkutsk, 1971.

Geographical information, sports characteristics, and history of exploration of the "Moygoto" valley

The Moygoto valley is located in the central part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountain range, Eastern Sayan Mountains. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest mountain range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, with the highest point at 3266 m, located in the upper reaches of the Gang-Khairym valley. The range has alpine relief forms and many peaks of interest to mountaineers. The valleys are deep and covered with dense taiga. The tree line lies at an altitude of 1700 m. The snow cover largely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peak "Perya" is situated in a lateral spur, separated from the main ridge by a deep saddle. The peak's height is 2996 m. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, located 30 km away; Irkutsk is 250 km away. From the valley to the base camp, it is an 8 km ascent through a very difficult-to-access valley (the use of pack transport is not feasible), taking 5-6 hours.

Brief historical and geographical outline of the Ganga Khairym valley.

The Ganga Khairym valley has attracted mountaineers since the very beginning of the development of the Tunkin Goltsy. Here is located the highest point of the ridge — 3284 m, Mount Strelnikova, named after one of the border guards who died during the military conflict on Damansky Island in 1969. Who was the first to ascend it is not established. The valley is referred to by different names on various maps:

• Ganga Khairym,
• Ganga Khairym. In the mountaineering community, the valley has historically been known as Khairym. In the 1960s, a group of Irkutsk mountaineers made the first ascent of the 3187 m peak. The first to reach the summit was Starkov, and with his arms raised and the exclamation: "The summit is ours!", he fell flat on the summit snowdrift. (V. "Desirable, ferocious, beautiful".) The snowdrift was a wind-blown cornice that collapsed into the Bi valley cirque along with the first ascendant. 3187 came to be known as Starkov Peak. Between 1970 and 1979, there were several mountaineering events in the Ganga Khairym valley. In November 1974, the last mountaineering event took place in this area. In 1974, during a mountaineering event on the peak named after Stanevich A.M. (who made the first ascent in 1973), Rabnovskaya Tamara Alyussanovna (Propltagas) died in an avalanche.

Ascent passport to the summit

Route Diagram

Route Profile

Photo of the Middle Part of the Route Profile

Trëkhglavaya. North Tower. 2511. Category 4B, 650 m, 52°, 66 pitons, 13 hours. Afanasiev A.E., Krasnukhin L.I. March 18, 1987.

View of the Key Bastion from the Key Section

R2–R3 Section

Irkutsk Regional Alpine Federation

Description

Ascent to v. "Flibustier" via the 3rd ridge (Tunkin Goltsy) Eastern Sayan. 2860 m. Irkutsk, 1971.

Geographical Information, Sports Characteristics, and History of the Exploration of the Moygato Valley

The Moygato valley is located in the middle part of the Tunkin Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan. Tunkin Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3266 m in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym valley. The ridge has alpine forms of relief. There are many peaks of interest to climbers. The valleys are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary lies at an altitude of 1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peak "Flibustier" is located in a lateral spur. The height of the peak is 2860 m.

Climbing Passport

1. Center of Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, 6.2.
2. Zvezdny peak, via S wall center (via "Mirror")
3. First ascent, 6A category of difficulty.
4. The route is rocky.
5. Elevation gain along the route according to altimeter — 350 m. Route length — 500 m. Length of sections:

• V category of difficulty — 50 m
• VI category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness:
• main part — 84°

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge
3. Peak — Zub Drakona 2170 m via the center of the S wall of the main tower.
4. Claimed — 6A first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m. total length — 600 m. length of 6th category sections — 220 m. 5th category sections — 150 m.

Characteristics of the area and its exploration history

The Issyk Lake area has long been known to both tourists and mountaineers. Several mountaineering groups and expeditions from the Talgar alpine camp and others have operated in the upper reaches of the Issyk gorge. They have conquered many peaks in the area and compiled detailed descriptions, diagrams, and more. However, the focus was primarily on the upper reaches of the Issyk gorge itself and its left (orographic) tributaries. There was a lack of information on ascents to the peaks of the right tributaries. Even on the most detailed map of the Trans-Ili Alatau available to us, the high peaks to the right of Issyk Lake were not marked. Meanwhile, the high peaks of the right tributaries are clearly visible from the village of Turgen and the Issyk railway station. From there, the significant glaciation of the area is also observable. The high peaks of the Pryamoye gorge, which flows into the Issyk River below the lake, are particularly noteworthy. In 1953, S. Kuderin and N. Shershnev attempted to approach these peaks via the Karabastau gorge, which flows into the Issyk River above the lake. The chosen path proved unsuccessful as it led to the steep and dangerous northern wall of the main peak in the area. Two months later, in May 1953, S. Kuderin and F. Lyubimov approached the glacier cirque via the Pryamoye gorge. The path turned out to be somewhat long and inconvenient for a large group. During this attempt, the group descended to the lake via the ridge separating the Issyk gorge from the Pryamoye gorge. It was found that this was the most convenient and shortest path to the glacier. On May 1, 1955, S. Kuderin and F. Khabibullin followed this path to the glacier cirque. From there, they made an ascent to a nameless peak with an elevation of 3800 m (№ 9) via a relatively straightforward route. There was no tour or note on the summit.