Passport

1. Altitude class.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m.) via the left buttress of the center of the North face.
4. Proposed 6th category of difficulty first ascent.
5. Height difference 2700 m., length 3570 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty: 1400 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 58°.
6. Number of pitons used: | Rock | Chocks | Ice | | :--: | :----: | :-: |

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical climb category.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tağ range, South Inylchek glacier.
3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the southwest wall.
4. Proposed route: 6th category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 2660 m; route length — 3448 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1134 m. Average steepness of main sections 62° (4336–6130), including 95 m of 6th category at 87°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock pitons | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--------- | :---- | :---- | :--------- |

Passport

I. Category of mountaineering ascent. 2. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. 3. Peak Khan-Tengri 103 SSW edge (V. Sviridenko, 82). 4. 6B category of difficulty. 5. Height difference 2590 m, length 3820 m. Length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty — 840 m. Length of sections 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58°. 6. Number of anchors used:

• rock anchors — 116
• protection equipment — 120

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge (KMGV section No. – 7.9)
2. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via SW crest SSW rib (V. Sviridenko, 82)
3. 6B category of difficulty
4. Route type — combined
5. Route elevation gain — 2595 m. Route length — 3720 m. Length of sections with 5 category of difficulty — 460 m, 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 58°, entire route — 49°
6. Pitons left on the route: total – 0, including bolted – 0. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Removable bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Total artificial climbing anchors used – 13.
7. Team's total climbing hours – 56, days – 7.

Ascent Record

1. Region — Central Tien-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, September 7, 1918
2. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via SW facet of SW edge (V. Sviridenko)
3. Complexity category — 6B
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 2395 m, elevation gain of the wall section — 1450 m, route length — 3455 m, length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 170 m, 5th category — 700 m,

MINISTRY OF SPORT, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2013 Class of High-Altitude Ascents

Report

Of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko) 6B category of complexity.

Passport of the Ascent

1. Region — Central Tien Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.18.
2. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko).

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Chapayeva, 6371, via the Western part of the South face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 2371 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 2050 m, average slope – 55°.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | rock | ice | bolt |

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude category. 2. Central Tian Shan, Tengri Tag ridge. 3. Peak Zapadny Shatyor, via the Southwest Ridge of the South Ridge, 6740 m. 4. Proposed - 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference - 1840 m; length - 3428 m; length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 240 m; average steepness of the southwest ridge - 48°. 6. Pitons driven:

1. Class: ice-snow
2. Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Peak "4700" via the center of the north face
4. Proposed first ascent, category 5B difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 1000 m, length — 1290 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1230 m. Average steepness of the route — 55°
6. Pitons driven — 111: rock 45, chocks 8, ice 58
7. Team's travel hours — 13

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow class
2. Tian-Shan, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. 2nd Eastern Oguz-Bashi peak, center of the northern wall
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1000 m, length — 1500 m. Length of 5B category sections — 1200 m. Average steepness of the route (main part) 60° (3750–4600 m)
6. Pitons hammered in:
   • Rock: 5/0
   • Bolt: none
   • Chocks: 15/0