1. Class: ice-snow

2. Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge

3. Peak "4700" via the center of the north face

4. Proposed first ascent, category 5B difficulty

5. Elevation gain — 1000 m, length — 1290 m

Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1230 m. Average steepness of the route — 55°

6. Pitons driven — 111: rock 45, chocks 8, ice 58

7. Team's travel hours — 13

8. Overnights: one on descent — on snow.

9. Leader: Vladimir Balyberdin — Honored Master of Sports, Master of Sports of International Class

Team members:

• Yuri Razumov — Master of Sports
• Boris Silin — Master of Sports
• Nikolai Shustrov — Candidate for Master of Sports

10. Senior coach: Alexander Kolchin — Master of Sports of International Class Coach: Yuri Razumov — Master of Sports

11. Route start: August 13, 1984 Summit: August 13, 1984. Return: August 14, 1984.

12. Organization: Central Sports Club of the Spartak Sports Society

General photo of the summit

1. Route of the Spartak Central Sports Club team
2. Route of the Trud Central Sports Club team

Route description by sections

D-1. Steep ice slope. Climbed in crampons with alternating belay.

R1–R3. Rock shelves and sheer wall under the bastion. Climbed in crampons. Leader: Balyberdin. Ropes fixed.

R3–R4. Ice gully. Climbed using ice axes. Leader: Shustrov. Ropes fixed.

R4–R6. Rock wall. Climbed along the edge of an inner corner. Ropes fixed. Rocks are solid and monolithic.

R6–R8. Ice slope. Climbed with simultaneous and alternating belay using ice axe picks and crampons. Leaders alternated.

R8–R9. Rock wall. Climbed on a diagonal shelf to the left with ropes fixed. Leader: Balyberdin.

R9–R11. Ice slopes between rock outcrops. Alternating belay, leaders alternated.

R11–R12. Ice gully in a rock wall. Ropes fixed. Climbed using ice axes and ice hammer. Leader: Razumov.

R12–R14. Ice slope with rock outcrops. Alternating and simultaneous movement using the second rope of the first rope team. Leaders alternated.

4700