Ascent Passport

  1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge (KMGV section No. – 7.9)

  2. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via SW crest SSW rib (V. Sviridenko, 82)

  3. 6B category of difficulty

  4. Route type — combined

  5. Route elevation gain — 2595 m.

    Route length — 3720 m. Length of sections with 5 category of difficulty — 460 m, 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 58°, entire route — 49°

  6. Pitons left on the route: total – 0, including bolted – 0.

    Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Removable bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Total artificial climbing anchors used – 13.

  7. Team's total climbing hours – 56, days – 7.

  8. Team leader: Foigt Alexander Vadimovich – MS

    Team members:

    • Stalkovsky Vladimir Viktorovich – MS
    • Belkin Alexander Valentinovich – CMS
    • Zvyagintsev Maxim Vladimirovich – CMS
    • Zuev Sergey Vasil'evich – CMS
    • Kuvakin Arkady Anatol'evich – CMS
  9. Coach: Zuev Sergey Vasil'evich, CMS

  10. Departure to the route: 8:00 August 9, 2003.

    Summit arrival: 12:00 August 15, 2003. Return to Base Camp: 11:00 August 16, 2003. Summit photoimg-0.jpeg

    1 – route taken by the team via SW crest SSW rib, 6B category of difficulty (V. Sviridenko, 82). 2 – route via S wall, 6A category of difficulty (G. Isachenko, 82)

    Photo taken: August 4, 2003 from South Inylchek glacier

Section No.Pitons used, with artificial climbing in denominatorRoute diagramDifficulty, length (m), steepness
rockcammedice
R11–R1215img-1.jpeg4, 150 m, 50°
R10–R1110img-2.jpeg3, 200 m, 45°
R9–R1044img-3.jpeg3, 100 m, 45°
R8–R9443, 50 m, 60°
Section No.Pitons used, with artificial climbing in denominatorRoute diagramDifficulty, length (m), steepness
rockcammedice
R25–R2612225, 30 m, 70°
R24–R258/26/16, 50 m, 75°, A1
R23–R24725, 40 m, 70°, photo No. 4
R22–R23123, 10 m, 40°
R21–R223/1116, 10 m, 80°, A2
R20–R215/24/16, 20 m, 80°, A2
R19–R2035, 10 m, 70°
R18–R19825, 40 m, 65°
R17–R18835, 40 m, 75°, photo No. 3
R16–R17624, 50 m, 55°
R15–R163325, 40 m, 70°
R14–R155/226, 30 m, 80°, A2
R13–R1456, 20 m, 75°
R12–R1385, 40 m, 60°
Section No.Pitons used, with artificial climbing in denominatorRoute diagramDifficulty, length (m), steepness
rockcammedice
R33–R34265, 40 m, 60°, photo No. 7
R32–R333, 20 m, 60°
R31–R32126, 120 m, 60°, photo No. 6
R30–R3123, 5 m, 20°
R29–R304/236, 30 m, 80°, A2
R28–R29515, 30 m, 65°
R27–R283/13/16, 20 m, 70°, A1
R26–R27205, 120 m, 70°, photo No. 5
Section No.Pitons used, with artificial climbing in denominatorRoute diagramDifficulty, length (m), steepness
rockcammedice
R36–R372528img-4.jpeg3, 450 m, 45°
R35–R36img-5.jpeg2, 100 m, 40°
R34–R35img-6.jpeg2, 500 m, 30°
Section No.Pitons used, with artificial climbing in denominatorRoute diagramDifficulty, length (m), steepness
rockcammedice
R40–R41img-7.jpeg1, 100 m, 20°
R39–R402, 30 m, 40°
R38–R39513, 40 m, 50°
R37–R384627img-8.jpeg3, 700 m, 50°

Technical photo of the routeimg-9.jpeg

Report photo illustrationimg-10.jpeg

Photo No. 1. Passage of section R1–R2img-11.jpeg

Photo No. 2. Passage of section R7–R8img-12.jpeg

Photo No. 4. Passage of section R23–R24img-13.jpeg

Photo No. 5. Passage of section R26–R27img-14.jpeg

Photo No. 7. Passage of section R33–R34

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