Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascent: Sports
2. Region of ascent, ridge: Central Altai North-Uysky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Lyzhnika 3680 m via north-eastern wall 10 V category
4. Required difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 1180 m
   • Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty: 90 m
   • Average steepness: 50–60°
6. Number of protection points: Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Technical climb.
2. Altai, North-Chuysky Range, Abyl-Oyuk gully.
3. Einstein Peak 3900 m. Central part of the South Face.
4. Route 6A category of difficulty (approx.) First ascent of the route.
5. Route height difference: 800 m (wall base 3100 m – summit 3900 m). Route length 900 m.
6. Length of the wall part of the route 760 m (height difference 710 m). Bastion: length 600 m (height difference 560 m).

1.2.114

Passport

1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktru gorge.

Peak Yubileynaya 3403: via south-eastern couloir of north-eastern ridge

Proposed: Category 1B difficulty, first ascent Route type: combined Note: height (3403.2) — according to the published online map M 1:50000 Altitude difference according to group's altimeter: 3400–2940 = 460 m. Route length: couloir — 500 m (estimated), ridge — 450 m (estimated), total — 950 m (estimated), including Category I difficulty section — 180 m from 45° to 60°. Average steepness of the entire route — 30° (estimated).

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit Yubileynaya from the Container pass, category 1B, by the team of the Sports club of alpinists "Voshozhdenie" (Barnaul) on May 3, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

v. Yunost' from the Aktru gorge, 1B cat. diff.

From the camp, move up the river in the direction of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of the Kzyl-Tash River, following the riverbed to the large rocky "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope. Further:

• Move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazhёrov.
• The lake is located behind a moraine rampart.
• On the moraine — a glaciologists' tent.
• From the camp — 2–2.5 hours of walking.
• A convenient place for an overnight stay. From the mo­ra­ine la­ke, go out onto the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (crevasses! Move in ropes!). Move, following the slopes on the right up to v. Yunost'. Cross the glacier in the direction of the ridge located to the right of v. Yunost'. Time — 2.5–3 hours.

Passport

1. Class. First ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Peak "Russia XX века" – peak "Instruktorov" traverse.
4. Proposed 3A category of difficulty.
5. Elevation difference 860 m, length 2210 m.
6. Pitons: 18 ice screws.
7. Climbing hours: 11 h from glacier to glacier.
8. Overnight stays: not necessary.
9. Leader: Drakin A.V. CMS.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Region: Altai. Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
2. Peak: 3740
3. Proposed: 2B–3A category of difficulty
4. Route type: combined
5. Route description: Elevation gain — 960 m Route length — 2600 m Length of 3rd category of difficulty sections — 100 m Average slope — 40°

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit DVS, 3755 m, Altai Republic, Kosh-Agachsky district, North-Chuya ridge, Akturu gorge via the icy slope through Jelo pass 3A cat. diff. (combined) by a group of climbers at the Tomsk Alpinism Federation gathering on November 2, 2022.

Participants:

Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich, Master of Sports Khasanov Nail Albertovich, 3rd sports category Shubin Andrey Sergeevich, 3rd sports category Bunkov Viktor Evgenievich, 3rd sports category Saraev German Igorevich, 3rd sports category

Report

On the ascent of the assembled team to the summit of Alisher 3670 m.

via the North Ridge. Presumably 1B category of difficulty. First ascent. Dolgov S. P. — team leader Usanov I. V., Luzhetsky I. V.

Altai 2013 participants of the ascent

1. Team leader — Dolgov Sergey Pavlovich. CMS. Address: 656015, Barnaul, ul. Depotskaya, 12–38. phone: +7 903-073-98-18. Email: s_dolgov@mail.ru
2. Usanov Ivan Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, Gorno-Altaisk
3. Luzhetsky Igor Viktorovich, 2nd sports category, Novosibirsk

Technical photography of the route

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Route description

R0–R1. The route begins from a small hut located at the foot of the ridge. Movement is along the snowy slope along the ridge on the right (orographically) below the rock outcrops, in the direction of a large rock ledge. Movement with alternating belay, through ice screws (under the snow — sections of ice). 770 m. 45° II. R1–R2. The rocky ledge of the ridge is bypassed on the right (orographically), exit to the icy slope leading to the crest of the North ridge. Movement with alternating belay, through ice screws. 50 m. III. R2–R3. Further — along the gentle snowy ridge in the direction of the summit (exit of destroyed rocks). Simultaneous movement. 250 m. I.

Photo illustration of the report

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