v. Yunost' from the Aktru gorge, 1B cat. diff.
From the camp, move up the river in the direction of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of the Kzyl-Tash River, following the riverbed to the large rocky "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope.
Further:
- Move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazhёrov.
- The lake is located behind a moraine rampart.
- On the moraine — a glaciologists' tent.
- From the camp — 2–2.5 hours of walking.
- A convenient place for an overnight stay.
From the moraine lake, go out onto the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (crevasses! Move in ropes!). Move, following the slopes on the right up to v. Yunost'. Cross the glacier in the direction of the ridge located to the right of v. Yunost'. Time — 2.5–3 hours.
Ascent to the ridge:
- Along a steep snowy slope (in the lower part, a bergschrund may be exposed)
- Further along a simple ridge to the summit (1–1.5 hours)
Descent along the ascent route to the moraine lake — 1–1.5 hours.
Author: S. Kostrюlev, Bratsk, Nemtsev S.Yu. and others