Passport

1. Class. First ascent.

2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.

3. Peak "Russia XX века" – peak "Instruktorov" traverse.

4. Proposed 3A category of difficulty.

5. Elevation difference 860 m, length 2210 m.

6. Pitons: 18 ice screws.

7. Climbing hours: 11 h from glacier to glacier.

8. Overnight stays: not necessary.

9. Leader: Drakin A.V. CMS.

   Participants: Mokhova V.M. 1st sports category Shlyakovoy A.L. 2nd sports category

10. Coach: Drakin A.V. 1st category #68.

11. Ascent date: July 29, 2000.

12. Organization: Barnaul mountaineering club.

Section R0–R8. Traverse peak "Russia XX века" – peak "Instruktorov". Camera location #4.

Peak "Russia XX века" – peak "Instruktorov". Traverse.

From the base camp located in the middle reaches of the Karabak river, move along the river, bypassing the lakes, to the tongue of the glacier, 2.5–3 hours. Approach the eastern slope of the NE ridge of peak "Russia XX века" via the glacier. A couloir is visible in the lower part of the ridge, which should be approached via large scree. The couloir is straightforward and leads to the ridge. The lower part of the ridge is straightforward. Move simultaneously with protection via a protrusion. The ridge leads to large scree shelves. Rockfall hazard!

The shelves lead to a 20 m wall, which is climbed via an inside corner or a chimney with a plug to the right of it. Movement is alternating.

Next follows a series of walls and shelves with a difficulty category of 2B, which are climbed:

• simultaneously,
• in some places alternately.

The series of walls and shelves ends with an icy crest. The crest leads to a 200-meter snow-ice slope. Move along the crest and slope alternately with protection via ice screws.

Next follows a snow-ice ridge with a steep 50 m ice pitch. The pitch is climbed alternately with protection via ice screws. The snow-ice ridge leads to the summit.

The ascent time is 4–5 hours from the glacier.

The descent from peak "Russia XX века" goes along the right side of the ridge in the direction of travel. Climbing is category II+. Protection via a protrusion. From the saddle, ascend peak "Barda Vizbora" via a snow-ice crest turning into an ice slope. Move alternately with protection via ice screws. From peak "Barda Vizbora", move to peak "Instruktorov" along a snow-ice ridge, mostly simultaneously. In some places, move alternately with protection via ice screws.

The descent from peak "Instruktorov" goes along the N slope to the saddle between peaks "Instruktorov" and "Zhukova Georgiya".