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Route Description: СВ стене
Description of a category 5B climb by a group of mountaineers along the North-Eastern wall of the Dombay peak in the Western Caucasus.
PASSPORT
- Rock class
- Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
- Peak Dombay (Main) via north-eastern wall
- Categorized route 5B category of difficulty
- Height difference: 787 m Length — 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 345 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°, including 5 category of difficulty — 78°.
- Pitons hammered: — 126 | rock | bolt | chockstones | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |
First ascent of the Crimson Wall on Main Domбай-Ulgen peak in 1973 by the team from the Domбай alpine camp led by V. Korotkov.
USSR Climbing Championship 1973. Technical Climbing Category
Ascent of Main Domбай-Ulgen peak via the South Face (First Ascent)
The route was climbed by the team from the "Dombay" mountaineering camp under the "Burevestnik" sports society.
Coach: Master of Sports of the USSR, R.P. Stroganov.
Western Caucasus
— 1973 —
Fig. 2. South Face of Main Domбай-Ulgen peak
Since the assault team was within sight of the observation group for the first three days, the latter was able to provide clear guidance to the assault team.
Route Description: баст. С стены
The ascent to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the north wall in 1962, a Category 5B route, with a detailed description of the path and technical characteristics of the sections.
Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)
List of participants in the assault group
TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.
- Height difference of the route: 1060 m
- Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
- Steepness of the route: 80–90°
- Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |
Route Description: 3 стене сурка
Report on the ascent of Pik Purovsky via the western wall in 1953 by the CS TSO "Avangard" team, describing a challenging route of category 5B complexity.
Report
On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the West face (through the "Gendarme" "Surkov")
Central Council of the DSO "Avangard"
Kiev — 1967
Data on team members
| № п/п | Surname, name, patronymic | Year of birth | Nationality | Party affiliation | Sports rank | Climbing experience | Primary profession | Place of residence |
|---|
Route Description: 3 стене сурка
Report on the winter ascent by a team to Peak Shchurovsky via the West face "Surka" and the edge of the North face bastion, cat. 5.5, in January-February 1983.
Report
on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983
Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky
Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief:
Route Description: 3 стене сурка
Route passport for Peak Shurovskogo via the Western wall through "Surok", category of complexity 5B, height difference 959 m.
PASSPORT
- Class — technical;
- Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range;
- Peak Shurovskogo 4295 m, via the Western wall through "Surok";
- Cat. diff. — 5B;
- Height difference — 959 m. Route length — 1804 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 375 m; Average steepness 64°, steepness of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 72°.
- Pitons driven | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolts | | :---------: | :----: | :----: |
Route Description: С ребру
Ascent via the north wall of Pik Shchurovskogo, a 5B category route completed by the "Avanard" team in 1962.
REPORT
ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF PIK SHCHUROVSKOGO
Central Council of the Sports Society
"Avangard"
Kiev — 1962
Profile of the lower part of the large rock island. Sections of the wall R7–R10. Photograph taken by V. Bocharov during the ascent of the northeast wall of Pik Shchurovskogo on July 14, 1962.
Introduction
Pik Shchurovskogo (4259) is located in the Central Caucasus and is situated in the ridge that borders the Shkheldy glacier from the northeast.
Route Description: СВ стене
Climbing passport of a winter ascent of 5B category of complexity to Peak Shchurovsky (4259 m) via the North-Eastern wall in the Central Caucasus.
Ascent Passport
- Class — winter.
- Central Caucasus.
- Peak Shchurovsky, 4259 m, via the northeast wall (V. Abalakov's route).
- Category of difficulty: 5B.
- Height difference: 800 m, length – 1050 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 220 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 780 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°. Average steepness of the main sections — 75°.
- Number of pitons driven | Rock | Nut | Ice | Bolt | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- |
Route Description: СВ стене
Report on the ascent by the SA and Navy team to Peak Shchurovsky via the North-East wall, a 5th category difficulty route, in 1984.
XXXV USSR Championship rock class
Report
On the ascent of p. Shchurovsky (4259 m) via the north-eastern wall, category 5B route by V. Abalakov of the SA and Navy team Team leader Zhak V.V., team coach Dzhibradev Yu.G. When developing the tactical action plan for the route, the team considered the following factors:
- the volume of information about the route available to the team before the ascent;
- the weather conditions in the ascent area;
- the duration of the approach to the route;
- the level of preparedness of the team members. To expand knowledge about the route, the team decided to observe it for a day preceding the ascent. On July 21, team members continuously observed the route (see observation and radio communication log). The observation results allowed for some adjustments to the stated tactical plan, according to which the team planned to complete the route in 10-11 hours.
Route Description: с востока через Ачкерьякольский лавовый поток
Report on the ascent to the summit of Elbrus East (5621 m) from the east via Achkieryachkol lava flow, category 2A.
Report
On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.
from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru