Russian Mountaineering Championship 2020 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents.

Report

on the ascent to Chegem peak 4351 m via the NE wall, NE ridge (Forostyan's route), 6A category of complexity by the team from Samara region and Moscow for the period from August 12 to 13, 2020.

1. Ascent Passport

Moscow City Climbing Championship

In the High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On ascending to the summit of Chegem (4351 m) via the route on the northeast wall of the northeast ridge (V. Forostyana) 6A category of complexity by the KAIS MEI team For the period from August 5, 2020, to August 7, 2020 Climbing and Mountaineering Club of Moscow Power Engineering Institute

I. Climbing Passport

1984. CLASS OF TECHNICAL ASCENTS

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF CHEGEM (4461 m) ALONG THE NE EDGE OF THE N-E RIB, APPROXIMATELY 5B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF INSTRUCTORS FROM THE "ULLUTAU" ALPINE CAMP. A. Kurochkin, V. Ivashkin, A. Lukonenko, V. Poliansky, A. Sayapin, V. Smirnov July 31 – August 4, 1984. Team Leader: Kurochkin A.G. Team Coach: Porokhnya Yu.I. 361602, KBAASSR, Verkhny Baksan settlement, "Ullutau" alpine camp 360017, Nalchik, Kirova st., 12, apt. 50 Porokhnya Yu.I. 364046, Grozny, Verkhoyanskaya st., 4A, apt. 99 Kurochkin A.G.

286. Chegettau via the Western Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 18, 32).

From the "Ullutau" alpine camp (group of 4-20 people), cross the Adyrsu River via a small bridge and ascend along the trail on its right bank. After passing the Chotchat stream, the trail diverges from the river to the right and goes up a steep slope overgrown with rhododendrons to the shoulder of the Eastern Ridge of Chotchat peak. At the shoulder, turn right and follow the trail, traversing the left (southern) slope of the Eastern Ridge of Chotchat peak, to reach the right-bank moraine of the Gumachi Glacier. Ascend along the moraine to the platforms at its end. Paths:

• From the "Ullutau" alpine camp — 2–2.5 hours. The "Gumachi Moraine" platforms serve as the initial bivouac. From the platforms, exit onto the Gumachi Glacier and move along the gentle part of the glacier towards the Gumachi Pass. After passing the icefall descending from the northwestern slopes of Chegettau peak, turn left and ascend steep ice-and-snow slopes (closed crevasses) to reach the southern cirque of the Gumachi Glacier. From the cirque, cross the bergschrund and ascend a steep 80–100-meter ice-and-snow slope (with protection) to reach the saddle of the Yaman Pass between Chegettau and Gumachi peaks. From the initial bivouac, it takes 3–3.5 hours. At the pass, turn left and follow the broad snowy ridge (with cornices) of the saddle to approach the ascent of the Western Ridge of Chegettau peak. From the saddle, ascend 100 meters (with protection) over simple, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks at the ascent. Then, follow the broad, occasionally narrow snowy ridge (with cornices), with short steep ascents and sections of simple destroyed rocks, to reach the summit of Chegettau. From the pass saddle, it takes 4–5 hours.

CENTRAL CAUCASUS. ADYR-SU VALLEY ALPINISM CAMP “DJAILYLYK”

V. Cheget-Tau Chana from the east via the wall. (Route description of the first ascent)

Group: DAVYDOV A.P. — leader

• VYSHINSKY N.N.
• PLYUKHIN Y.V.
• SUKHORUKOV A.T. August 1963 The Cheget-Tau Chana peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range. The ridge of the Cheget-Tau massif, enclosed between the peaks of Latsga and Gumachi, stretches from southeast to northwest. The ridge is weakly dissected and has an insignificant number of "gendarms". The highest point of the massif has an elevation of 4102 m and is located in its northwestern part — the Main summit. The southeastern part of the ridge has some dominance over the adjacent ridges and can be considered its Eastern summit.

283. Chegettau via the North Edge

(combined route by G. Sinakin, category 5A, fig. 18, 32). The path from the Ullutau alp camp (group of 4–6 people) to the "Chegetskie nochyovki" is described in route 269. From "Chegetskie nochyovki", approach the center of the rocky tower at the base of the North Edge of Chegettau's Lower Rocky Belt via the left side of the Gumachi glacier. From the glacier, ascend 10 m up and to the right via a sloping crack, then directly up through difficult rocks in a 6-meter vertical inner corner. An alternative ascent is possible directly up through the inner corner to the right of a small rocky outcrop. From the corner, traverse a 4-meter wall to the left of a cornice, then ascend an 8-meter slab and a 12-meter crack to reach the right side of a large ledge. This is a good spot to pull up backpacks. From the ledge, ascend 18–20 m directly up through smooth rocks on the wall (bolts, ladders), then bypass a "live" block on the right to reach another ledge. From the right side of the ledge, ascend 30 m up a smooth vertical wall (bolts, ladders), then climb steep, smooth rocks of medium to above-average difficulty to reach a ledge-slab to the left of the Big Split. Traverse 20–25 m up and to the left along an inclined, above-average difficulty ledge-slab under overhanging walls to approach a wide crack. Ascend 20 m up the crack-chimney ("live" stones, rockfall), then 60 m up and to the right through a wide inner corner with overhanging blocks in the center (bolts), which transitions into narrow, inclined shelves. Climb the shelves to reach a vertical inner corner. Ascend difficult rocks in the 20-meter vertical inner corner, exiting to the left onto slabs. Control point.

The route to the peak Shogentsukov via South ridge, cat. 2B (E. Fomushkin, 1965). Since 1965, the route has changed slightly. R1–R2. 90–100 m, 10–15 degrees, 1. From the shoulder of the South ridge of peak Shogentsukov, without descending to the glacier, to the right, along the South ridge. Along the large talus and destroyed rocks, approach a sharp gap in the ridge. R2–R3. 30–40 m, 20–25 degrees, 2. Descend into the gap (15 m, rappel) to the col of the South ridge. From the gap, along a small 8–10-meter couloir, ascend to an even, wide talus plateau. R3–R4. 90–100 m, 5–10 degrees. Along the plateau, approach the talus couloir. R4–R5. 70–80 m, 25–30 degrees, 2. Along the couloir, ascend 70–80 meters to a small col to the left of the ridge. R5–R6. 25 m, 45–60 degrees, 3–4. To the right along the rocks and steep inner corner with ice to the ridge. Along the ridge to the left, bypass the gendarme on the right side in the upper part. R6–R7. 2–3. Bypass several gendarmes along the ledges in a zigzag pattern (2nd and 3rd - to the left, 4th - to the right). R7–R8. Wide inclined ledge to the right of the 4th gendarme. 30 m. Cross to the left through the ridge to the snowy slope. R8–R9. To the right to the summit. Snowy slope 80 m. Kovalev A.N. 08/2020.

Ascent Passport

1. Kullumkol gorge (eastern branch of Adyr-su gorge). According to the 2008 classification table 2.4.1.
2. Peak Shogentsukova, 4081 m, via the northern slope.
3. Proposed — Category III difficulty, first ascent
4. Route character — ice and snow
5. Height difference of the route: (by altimeter or GPS) Altimeter and GPS are not used. Route length: technical part of the route 210 m, total route length 450 m. Section lengths: Category V difficulty — 4 m (ice wall 70–80° at the beginning of the technical part of the route), Category VI difficulty — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 48°; total route — 32°.
6. "Streams" (pitons) left on the route: All ice screws (10 pieces) are removed.
7. Team's walking hours: 9 hours 30 minutes, 2 days (including approach to the bivouac)
8. Leader: Zhigir Sergey Petrovich, Candidate Master of Sports

Report

on the first ascent of Shogentsukova peak via the South-Eastern wall, approximately 4A category of difficulty. Ullu-tau 2007

Route Passport

1. Mountain system — Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge. Name of the peak: Shogentsukova peak Peak number according to the 2001 classification table: 2.4.161
2. Route name: via the South-Eastern wall
3. Category of difficulty: 4A Passage: 1st passage

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical;
2. Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Ortokara peak, Adyrsu-Dzhailyk spur;
3. Yunom peak, 4365 m, via the West Face;
4. Category 4A, first ascent;
5. Height difference: 500 m; Distance: 960 m; Distance of category 4-5 sections: 135 m; Average steepness of the main sections: 58°;
6. Pitons driven: