The route to the peak Shogentsukov via South ridge, cat. 2B (E. Fomushkin, 1965). Since 1965, the route has changed slightly. R1–R2. 90–100 m, 10–15 degrees, 1. From the shoulder of the South ridge of peak Shogentsukov, without descending to the glacier, to the right, along the South ridge. Along the large talus and destroyed rocks, approach a sharp gap in the ridge. R2–R3. 30–40 m, 20–25 degrees, 2. Descend into the gap (15 m, rappel) to the col of the South ridge. From the gap, along a small 8–10-meter couloir, ascend to an even, wide talus plateau. R3–R4. 90–100 m, 5–10 degrees. Along the plateau, approach the talus couloir. R4–R5. 70–80 m, 25–30 degrees, 2. Along the couloir, ascend 70–80 meters to a small col to the left of the ridge. R5–R6. 25 m, 45–60 degrees, 3–4. To the right along the rocks and steep inner corner with ice to the ridge. Along the ridge to the left, bypass the gendarme on the right side in the upper part. R6–R7. 2–3. Bypass several gendarmes along the ledges in a zigzag pattern (2nd and 3rd - to the left, 4th - to the right). R7–R8. Wide inclined ledge to the right of the 4th gendarme. 30 m. Cross to the left through the ridge to the snowy slope. R8–R9. To the right to the summit. Snowy slope 80 m. Kovalev A.N. 08/2020.

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