286. Chegettau via the Western Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 18, 32).

From the "Ullutau" alpine camp (group of 4-20 people), cross the Adyrsu River via a small bridge and ascend along the trail on its right bank. After passing the Chotchat stream, the trail diverges from the river to the right and goes up a steep slope overgrown with rhododendrons to the shoulder of the Eastern Ridge of Chotchat peak. At the shoulder, turn right and follow the trail, traversing the left (southern) slope of the Eastern Ridge of Chotchat peak, to reach the right-bank moraine of the Gumachi Glacier. Ascend along the moraine to the platforms at its end.

Paths:

• From the "Ullutau" alpine camp — 2–2.5 hours.

The "Gumachi Moraine" platforms serve as the initial bivouac.

From the platforms, exit onto the Gumachi Glacier and move along the gentle part of the glacier towards the Gumachi Pass. After passing the icefall descending from the northwestern slopes of Chegettau peak,

turn left and ascend steep ice-and-snow slopes (closed crevasses) to reach the southern cirque of the Gumachi Glacier.

From the cirque, cross the bergschrund and ascend a steep 80–100-meter ice-and-snow slope (with protection) to reach the saddle of the Yaman Pass between Chegettau and Gumachi peaks. From the initial bivouac, it takes 3–3.5 hours.

At the pass, turn left and follow the broad snowy ridge (with cornices) of the saddle to approach the ascent of the Western Ridge of Chegettau peak. From the saddle, ascend 100 meters (with protection) over simple, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks at the ascent. Then, follow the broad, occasionally narrow snowy ridge (with cornices), with short steep ascents and sections of simple destroyed rocks, to reach the summit of Chegettau. From the pass saddle, it takes 4–5 hours.