283. Chegettau via the North Edge
(combined route by G. Sinakin, category 5A, fig. 18, 32). The path from the Ullutau alp camp (group of 4–6 people) to the "Chegetskie nochyovki" is described in route 269. From "Chegetskie nochyovki", approach the center of the rocky tower at the base of the North Edge of Chegettau's Lower Rocky Belt via the left side of the Gumachi glacier.
From the glacier, ascend 10 m up and to the right via a sloping crack, then directly up through difficult rocks in a 6-meter vertical inner corner. An alternative ascent is possible directly up through the inner corner to the right of a small rocky outcrop. From the corner, traverse a 4-meter wall to the left of a cornice, then ascend an 8-meter slab and a 12-meter crack to reach the right side of a large ledge. This is a good spot to pull up backpacks.
From the ledge, ascend 18–20 m directly up through smooth rocks on the wall (bolts, ladders), then bypass a "live" block on the right to reach another ledge. From the right side of the ledge, ascend 30 m up a smooth vertical wall (bolts, ladders), then climb steep, smooth rocks of medium to above-average difficulty to reach a ledge-slab to the left of the Big Split.
Traverse 20–25 m up and to the left along an inclined, above-average difficulty ledge-slab under overhanging walls to approach a wide crack. Ascend 20 m up the crack-chimney ("live" stones, rockfall), then 60 m up and to the right through a wide inner corner with overhanging blocks in the center (bolts), which transitions into narrow, inclined shelves. Climb the shelves to reach a vertical inner corner. Ascend difficult rocks in the 20-meter vertical inner corner, exiting to the left onto slabs. Control point.
Traverse 20 m to the left along the slabs ("live" stones) and pass through a rocky bottleneck to enter a rocky area. Climb difficult rocks transitioning into an inner corner-chimney 50–60 m up (bolts) to reach slabs. Ascend the slabs up and to the left towards an inner corner. Climb rocks of medium to above-average difficulty in the corner, which transitions into a couloir ("live" stones), for an 80-meter ascent to the left rib of the rocky tower at the base of the North Edge. Set up a bivouac here. The journey from "Chegetskie nochyovki" takes 11–13 hours.
Continue by bypassing gendarmes and rocky outcrops via simple and medium-difficulty rocks on the left side of the North Edge, then ascend steep rocks of medium difficulty to reach the Middle Rocky Belt of the North Edge. The further ascent is described in route 282. From the bivouac on the rib to the summit of Chegettau takes 4–5 hours.