II Asport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Bashkara peak, 4241 m, via the North Face.
4. Proposed category of difficulty – 5B, rated.
5. Route characteristics: height difference including the icefall 600 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty 510 m, avg. slope 65°, 6th category of difficulty 80 m, avg. slope 85°, average slope of the wall section of the route 60.5°
6. Pitons driven: rock 53, bolt 7/7, ice 15, chock stones 91/4
7. Total climbing time 17.5 hours

I. Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge.
3. Bashkara peak via North wall 4241 m.
4. Complexity category 6A.
5. Height difference 568 m; length 693 m; average steepness 57°.
6. Number of pitons used:

   ice	rock	chocks	bolt
   		elements

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Bashkara (4241 m) via the N wall of the 3rd shoulder.
4. Difficulty category — 6A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 935 m.
   • wall section length — 400 m.
   • height difference — 741 m.
   • average steepness 53°.

Bashkara — Gadyl traverse, cat. 4A, K. Agger route, I4

From the "Green Hotel" we move along the Jankuat glacier in the direction of the Jantugan plateau and the pass located between the Aristov rocks and the ridge of the Jantugan peak. By-passing the bergschrund on the left, we reach the Jantugan plateau. From the bivouac site, the path to the peak goes southwest across the plateau in the direction of the N-E ridge of Bashkara. At the last slope descending from this ridge (further up, a sheer wall of the Bashkara massif rises), they cross the bergschrund and go along the talus with rocks protruding from it. The "gendarme" is bypassed on the left along easy rocks. Having reached the ridge, you need to pass a small snow bridge that leads directly to the rather steep rocks of the ridge leading to the summit. Without reaching the ridge itself, but sticking to its left side, you need to overcome a number of crevices and chimneys along fairly strong rocks (pitch). Having passed this first stage, they overcome the second, easier belt of rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge all the way to the summit. The tower encountered on the way is bypassed on the left. Above it lies a small snowpatch, which must be crossed near the rocks. Having gone 20 meters, they turn onto the rocks and reach a small depression that separates the Bashkara peak into two parts:

• The first part is the northern one, which is the highest point of the peak.
• From the lowest point of the peak - the southern one - the ridge goes to the Gadyl peak. The ascent from the bivouac on the Jantugan plateau to the summit takes 9-10 hours. From the Bashkara summit, the path goes to the left along the ridge in the direction of the Gadyl peak. There are a large number of "gendarmeries" on the ridge:
• The 1st is taken head-on,
• The 2nd is bypassed on the right.

в. Бжедух, 4270 m, via North ridge, lс, 3Б cat. sl., L. Distel's route, R0. From Джантуган ASB we ascend to overnight stays below the "Red rocks". From the overnight stays we exit via the Кашка — Таш glacier in the direction of the big couloir of the north ridge of в. Бжедух. We ascend via snow in the couloir to the upper part of the rocky island. Traversing the destroyed rocks upwards to the right, we exit to the boundary of rocks and snow. In the upper part of the ridge we circumvent small rocky walls with a traverse to the left — upwards to the ridge (from overnight stays 90–120 min). On the ridge we move along the scree towards в. Бжедух. Having passed the wide part of the ridge along the screes to the rocky section rising towards the summit, we traverse 100–120 m. The descent from the ridge down to the Бжедух glacier is not difficult (from the start of the ridge to the descent to the glacier — 60–75 min). About an hour is needed to walk along the glacier to the snowy ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the right. Further, the path goes along a snowy-icy ascent:

• At the end — an icy ascent.
• Move on front points with insurance via ice screws.
• In the upper part, icy overhangs loom.
• Pass the entire snowy ridge to the left of these overhangs (4–5 hours).

V. Blud­ukh, 4270 m, via NW wall, cat. dif. 4A, A. Ro­ma­nov's route, 56 From the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp, follow the right side of the Shkhelda gorge down to the Shkhelda glacier. Immediately after reaching the glacier, cross it in the direction of the stream descending from the Bzhe­dukh glacier, and follow its right side. Then, ascend steep grassy slopes to reach the right-bank moraine (relative to the direction of travel) of the Bzhedukh glacier. From the moraine, approach the rocky ridge in the right part of the Bzhedukh glacier and ascend it in its middle section via wide ledges. Follow the ridge to the right, towards its highest point. Set up a bivouac here. 5–6 hours from the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp.

Ascent Passport:

1. Technical climb category.
2. Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye.
3. Bzhedug, NW wall, direct line.
4. Assumed 5A category, First ascent.
5. Combined route.
6. Height difference: 700 m, route length: 950 m. Length of category complexity sections 5 — 140 m. Average steepness of the route — 50°. Average steepness of the wall — 70°.

ASCENT LOG

Bukabashi via the right part of the southern wall and the eastern ridge

(Report on the first ascent)

1. Technical category.
2. Central Caucasus, Almalykaya Ridge
3. Bukabashi via the right part of the southern wall and the eastern ridge 3500 m.
4. Supposed to be 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 370 m, length — 504 m. The length of sections of the 5th category of complexity — 25 m. The length of 6A-6B sections — 0 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route — 55°, the entire route — 48°.
6. Total number of pitons left on the route — 0 pcs., including:

Via-tau 2A category via the North ridge

Ascent from the Kod-avgan-aush glacier pass with descent via the ascent route or Category 1B route. Day 1. From the Dmantugan alpine camp, follow the trail along the Adylsu river to the Zelyonaya gostinitsa (Green Inn). Follow the lateral moraine to the Dmankuat glacier, crossing it in the lower part from right to left. Ascend to the right-bank moraine, which has pockets with flat areas and water. Overnight stay. Day 2. From the overnight stay, ascend via the grassy slope and talus to the Kod-avgan-aush glacier, where there are also flat areas on the talus for overnight stays. Via the clay talus, which may be snow-covered at the beginning of summer, ascend to the Kodavvaganaush Lozn pass. The actual pass remains on the left on the ridge. From the false pass, move right along the ridge. After two elevations, the ridge begins to rise. The rock character is slabby (peg страховка). Continue along the несложному ridge to the summit. Descent from the summit via the ascent route or via the Category 1B route. On the Irne-Ivle ridge, there are large cornices and overhanging rocks, making the ascent very challenging. The ridge ascent at this time is done on the left via the rocks (via подкам), where there are many loose stones.

Report

On the first ascent of VIAtaou peak via the Northern slope of the Western ridge and the Western ridge, category 2A complexity (combined route) (tentative)

June 17, 2008

Report content:

• Ascent passport sheet 1 p. 1
• General photo of the peak sheet 1 p. 2
• Explanatory text sheet 2 p. 3
• Area map sheet 2 p. 4
• Route profile sheet 3 p. 5
• GPS data decoding sheet 3 p. 6