Via-tau 2A category via the North ridge
Ascent from the Kod-avgan-aush glacier pass with descent via the ascent route or Category 1B route.
Day 1. From the Dmantugan alpine camp, follow the trail along the Adylsu river to the Zelyonaya gostinitsa (Green Inn). Follow the lateral moraine to the Dmankuat glacier, crossing it in the lower part from right to left. Ascend to the right-bank moraine, which has pockets with flat areas and water. Overnight stay.
Day 2. From the overnight stay, ascend via the grassy slope and talus to the Kod-avgan-aush glacier, where there are also flat areas on the talus for overnight stays.
Via the clay talus, which may be snow-covered at the beginning of summer, ascend to the Kodavvaganaush Lozn pass. The actual pass remains on the left on the ridge. From the false pass, move right along the ridge. After two elevations, the ridge begins to rise. The rock character is slabby (peg страховка). Continue along the несложному ridge to the summit. Descent from the summit via the ascent route or via the Category 1B route.
On the Irne-Ivle ridge, there are large cornices and overhanging rocks, making the ascent very challenging. The ridge ascent at this time is done on the left via the rocks (via подкам), where there are many loose stones.
Itinerary:
- Dmantugan alpine camp — overnight stay — 2.5–3 hours
- Overnight stay — summit — 5–6 hours
Summit — camp — 5–6 hours.
Group equipment for 4 people:
- Rock climbing hooks — 4 pieces
- Carabiners — 6 pieces