в. Бжедух, 4270 m, via North ridge, lс, 3Б cat. sl., L. Distel's route, R0.

From Джантуган ASB we ascend to overnight stays below the "Red rocks". From the overnight stays we exit via the Кашка — Таш glacier in the direction of the big couloir of the north ridge of в. Бжедух.

We ascend via snow in the couloir to the upper part of the rocky island. Traversing the destroyed rocks upwards to the right, we exit to the boundary of rocks and snow. In the upper part of the ridge we circumvent small rocky walls with a traverse to the left — upwards to the ridge (from overnight stays 90–120 min).

On the ridge we move along the scree towards в. Бжедух. Having passed the wide part of the ridge along the screes to the rocky section rising towards the summit, we traverse 100–120 m.

The descent from the ridge down to the Бжедух glacier is not difficult (from the start of the ridge to the descent to the glacier — 60–75 min). About an hour is needed to walk along the glacier to the snowy ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the right.

Further, the path goes along a snowy-icy ascent:

  • At the end — an icy ascent.
  • Move on front points with insurance via ice screws.
  • In the upper part, icy overhangs loom.
  • Pass the entire snowy ridge to the left of these overhangs (4–5 hours).

The descent from the summit takes 1.5–2 hours via rocky ridges. It is necessary to descend from the saddle between в.в. Бжедух and Вольная Испания. The descent passes depending on the state of the glacier. Further, we descend along the glacier to the overnight stays and then to ASB.

It is recommended to organize an overnight stay on the ridge of в. Бжедух near the gendarmes.

Attached files

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment