V. Blud­ukh, 4270 m, via NW wall, cat. dif. 4A, A. Ro­ma­nov's route, 56

From the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp, follow the right side of the Shkhelda gorge down to the Shkhelda glacier. Immediately after reaching the glacier, cross it in the direction of the stream descending from the Bzhe­dukh glacier, and follow its right side. Then, ascend steep grassy slopes to reach the right-bank moraine (relative to the direction of travel) of the Bzhedukh glacier. From the moraine, approach the rocky ridge in the right part of the Bzhedukh glacier and ascend it in its middle section via wide ledges. Follow the ridge to the right, towards its highest point. Set up a bivouac here. 5–6 hours from the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp.

From the bivouac, head left onto the Bzhedukh glacier and approach the right part of the rocky triangle on the NW wall (1.5 hours). Cross the bergschrund and ascend 2.5–3 ropes up a steep ice-snow slope (staying close to the rocks in the upper part) to reach a rocky ledge on the left, below a reddish wall. From the ledge, ascend right-upwards onto a wide inclined terrace. Follow it, then continue via неслож­ным (uncomplicated) “barranii lby” (ram's foreheads) to reach an icy couloir. Cross the couloir to the right, below an overhanging 2-meter wall, which is overcome in its central part to reach a ledge. 6–8 ropes from the exit onto the rocks. From here, ascend 2 ropes to the right-upwards, maintaining direction towards a distinctive pointed triangular gendarme against the sky. (This section is traversed along the boundary between rocks and snow.) Then, cross a snowy slope and approach a pronounced inner corner (key section). Ascend 2 ropes up this corner to reach a wide, gently sloping part of the wall. Continue to ascend towards a wide snowy field and, along it, 4–5 ropes to the right-upwards, to approach the 5th wall (second key section). Overcome this wall directly and then ascend 1 rope to reach a snowy slope on the N ridge. Ascend 4–5 ropes up the ice-snow slope to reach the N ridge and a ledge on the right leading to the summit. 11–12 hours from the bivouac on the rocky ridge.

Descent via route 2B cat. dif. is possible. An alternative descent via the N ridge, route 3B cat. dif., is also possible.

Rockfall hazard in the lower part of the route (around the large gendarme) in the second half of the day. 5–6 hours back to the original bivouac.

Overnight stay is possible on the N ridge pass, 2 ropes below the summit, on its gentle section.

21 July 1984 Gyl (Oprt)

Chapraceme gu ghoia