129. Vilpata. The Fourth Spure of the South Ridge

(combined route, cat. 4B) From Vilpata bivouacs (departure at 5:00) across the snowy plateau of the northern branch of the Tsey Glacier, cross the Vorobyev Glacier. At the base of the ridge descending to the northern branch to the right of the spurs of the South Ridge of Vilpata peak and to the left of the Vorobyev Glacier, turn right. Then ascend via a wide snowy couloir between the spurs of Vilpata on the left and a long ridge on the right framing the couloir. Here, turn left and exit onto the rocks on the right part of the spur. The entrance is via ledges going left-upwards. There are platforms under the wall. Bypass the wall on the right. Then, via moderately difficult rocks (200 m), exit onto a platform (cairn) under a vertical wall. About 3–4 hours from the bivouac. Bypass the wall on the left, behind it, and ascend to the fourth section. Via steep and moderately difficult monolithic sections, and broken rocks, reach under the second wall, which is bypassed via rocks above moderate difficulty on the right. Via steep and moderately difficult, broken rocks — to a platform under a "gendarme" with a black wall (at 16:00). Bypass the "gendarme" on the right. First, descend downwards for 15 m, then ascend upwards (60+30 m) with above-moderate difficulty. Then, via a couloir, exit onto rocks under the next wall. There are platforms for an overnight stay. Bypass the wall on the right and then via easy and moderately difficult rocks on the left side of the spur — ascent to the South Ridge, where the paths from R1–R3 converge (19:00). Convenient platform for an overnight stay. Then, via easy rocks under a "gendarme" of the South Ridge. Bypass the "gendarme" on the left. There was ice at the entrance. (Crampons necessary.) Then, via a 150–200-meter snowy ascent, exit onto the summit of Vilpata.

CLIMBING ROUTE DOCUMENT

1. Technical category.
2. Caucasus, Tsey Valley.
3. Uilpata peak via South edge of the South-West ridge.
4. Proposed category 4B, combined, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain 1000 m, length — 1400 m. Length of sections with category 5A — 40 m, 4B — 200 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (the edge itself) 55–60° (3700–4500).
6. No pitons were left on the route.
7. Climbing time — 22 hours, duration — 3 days, including 1 day for "sitting out" bad weather.

UKRAINIAN REPUBLICAN COUNCIL OF THE STUDENT SPORTS SOCIETY "BUREVESTNIK"

FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UILPATA-TAU VIA THE CENTRAL RIB FROM THE EAST, 5B category of difficulty (report) Caucasus, Tsey, July 26–28, 1968

I. Introduction

1. Brief characteristics of the ascent area

The summit of Uilpata-tau (4646 m) is located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Range and towers above all other peaks in the Tsey region of the Caucasus. The Tsey mountain region is situated to the northeast of the Main Caucasian Range, encompassing peaks from Nokauk-sakh-zayne in the west to Mamison-Khokh in the east. The main peaks of the region — Fday-khokh, Zomag-taU, Ronketti, Mamison-Khokh, ChanchaKhi-Khokh, Uilpata-tau — are arranged in two "horseshoes" that divide the Tsey Glacier into two cirques: the South and North cirques. In the North cirque of the Tsey Glacier are located the peaks:

TACTICAL PLAN FOR ASCENDING ULLPATA PEAK

Via the 3rd Buttress of the South Ridge, Category 5A difficulty, July 14–15, 1983 (team under guidance)

Legend

• Ascent route
• Descent route
• Alternative descent route in good snow conditions

Objects on the Map

• Ullpata Peak: 4646 m (reached by 6:00)
• Ullpatinsky Pass

Уилпата, 2-й к.с. По северо-западному контрфорсу Южного гребня, 55

From the Vilpata bivouacs (departure at 3:00–4:00 at night due to rockfall in the couloir) across the snowy plateau of the North Branch:

• Go around a long ridge descending to the North Branch to the right of the counterforts of the Vilpata South Ridge on the left.
• Turn right and ascend along a gentle snowy slope of a wide couloir between the bases of the counterforts of the South Ridge on the left and the long ridge on the right.
• Having passed the base of the Second counterfort of the South Ridge, turn left and approach the right side of a narrow snowy couloir between the Second and

Ascent Record

1. Technical category.
2. Caucasus, Tsey Range.
3. Uilpata (4649 m), via the 1st buttress of the South Ridge.
4. Proposed category: 5A–5B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1050 m; route length: 1640 m. Length of 5–6 category sections: 35 m. Average slope: 50° for the main part of the route, 45° for the entire route (from the bergschrund).
6. Pitons used:
   • rock pitons — 17
   • chocks — 29

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — CAUCASUS, Tsey ridge.
3. Peak UILPATA, 4646 m, via the South ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Length — 1409 m.

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. Ullarg via the Northwest Buttress by a group of climbers MOS DSO "Trud"

§ 1. Geographical description of the area and sporting characteristics of the region

The summit of Ullarg (4320 m) is located in a lateral spur of the main Caucasian ridge, beyond the peaks of Uilpata and Songuti-khokh. The peaks of Arcihevskogo and Oni-Ani follow after Ullarg. The Ullarg region is still poorly explored from the north. It is far from active camps, and there are no convenient approaches. The only relatively easy access is from the northeast, from the villages of Dunta and Komunta, along the Songuti-don river. The path from the villages of Dunta and Komunta is long and difficult to traverse. ¹

5. V. ULARG VIA NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE, 5A cat. diff.

ONIANI PEAK WEST RIDGE ARTSYSHHEVSKOGO PEAK ULARG NORTH EDGE II Ridge I Ridge NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: