CLIMBING ROUTE DOCUMENT
- Technical category.
- Caucasus, Tsey Valley.
- Uilpata peak via South edge of the South-West ridge.
- Proposed category 4B, combined, first ascent.
- Elevation gain 1000 m, length — 1400 m. Length of sections with category 5A — 40 m, 4B — 200 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (the edge itself) 55–60° (3700–4500).
- No pitons were left on the route.
- Climbing time — 22 hours, duration — 3 days, including 1 day for "sitting out" bad weather.
- Two nights spent — at the exit to the pre-summit dome (second night due to severe weather).
- Team leader: Valery A. Remenyuk, Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: I.N. Kryuchkov — 1st Class, A.K. Kuchumov — Candidate Master of Sports, R.Kh. Kuchumova — 1st Class, E.K. Smirnova — 1st Class, A.S. Chalei — 1st Class.
- Approved by: G.G. Anoshin.
- Departure: July 20, 1990. Summit Uilpata. Return: July 30, 1990.
- Organization: "Torpedo" Mountaineering Club.
2. RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CLIMBERS
2.1. Start the ascent no later than 6:00 due to the risk of ice falling from the glacier on the left.
2.2. Equipment for a 4-person team:
- "Pamir" tent
- 40 m ropes — 3 pieces
- hammers — 2
- rock pitons: thin — 10, U-shaped — 10
- ice screws — 5
- stoppers #1–5 — 10 pieces
- quickdraws — 10
- carabiners — 15
- camping stove
- lanterns — 2
- ladders — 2
- radio
- first aid kit
- personal gear
- crampons — 4 pairs.
2.3. Bypassing difficult rock sections in the upper part of the route is possible but hazardous due to the risk of avalanches and falling rocks from the edge and pre-summit rocks.
2.4. In case of bad weather, it is necessary to have a reserve of food and fuel for 3 days.
Photo 3. Profile of the upland part, view from the right.
